In 1995, the Castro government cautiously opened up the restaurant business to free enterprise, allowing small eateries to be run out of private homes or apartments. Called paladars, these modest restaurants — which by law are not supposed to serve more than 12 people at a time (though they routinely do) — have vastly improved the Cuban eating experience.
Check out this link for the most complete list of Havana restaurants/paladares I’ve found:
http://www.cuba-junky.com/havana/havana-city-paladars.htm
I’ve selected the following restaurants/paladares either for value (decent food at low/moderate prices) or some other special consideration based upon reviews such as view, location, atmosphere, or food.
1. Artechef, 3ra y A, El Vedado.
Average cost per person: “reasonable”
Run by Cuban society of chefs.
2. La Roca, M/21 in Vedado
Average cost per person: $4.00
Great, cheap Cuban food With a piano man, waiters in tuxes, but set menus for under 4CUC. Far, far cheaper than the paladar we ate at.
3. Gringo Viejo, Calle 21 No 454 e/E y F, Vedado
Average cost per person: “affordable”
Open from noon until 11pm. At the paladar Gringo Viejo, the food is great, affordable, the staff quick to meet your needs, and the owner warm and friendly. This restaurant has a Western/Cowboy theme, which seems a bit bizarre when you are in Cuba, but the food is so good that it makes up for it. Great rabbit, lamb and roasted chicken.
4. El Caribeño, Calle 21 Esquina N, Vedado
Average cost per person: $3.00
This restaurant has been open since the 40s, but nowadays it doesn't serve traditional Cuban dishes. You can et cheaply and well here. The food selection is quite limited, but they do a combination of Caribbean dishes like "rollitos caribeños" and international cuisine. Try the chicken dishes, they have a few specialities. The prices are in Cuban pesos. On Fridays and Saturdays from 8pm until midnight they run a showcase called El Rincón de la Mora, which features local singers, comedians and musicians. Disabled access is available.
5. La Pelota, 23 esquina 12, Vedado
Average cost per person: $2.00
It's on a very well-known corner, on 13th and 23rd, and it is one of Vedado's traditional cafeterias. As almost all other places that sell in pesos there selection is rather limited and their decor quite simple. For many years this was the place where the baseball afficionados would get together to talk about the latest games. Apart from the tables in the dining room, there are a couple in the entrance hall where you can have simple Cuban dishes as well as others for four people where cafeteria service is given. Disabled access is available. Open 24 hours daily.
6. Las Donas, Calle 10 No. 525 entre 23 y 21, Vedado
Average cost per person: $1.00
They sell take-away food and family-size pizzas with cheese, onions, ham and/or chorizo which can also be bought by the slice. Although they close in the afternoon, requests can be made to pick up the food in the evening. This isn't exactly a place to eat, considering the other restaurants in the area, but if you are around and want to eat at cheap prices, you can confide in this place. There aren't any tables but you can take advantage of the shade under the trees. Disabled access is available.
7. Palamares Bakery, Calle 25 e/ O y Infanta, Vedado
Delicious pastries and breads, all for under a dollar.
8. Restaurante Terraza Florentina, Hotel Capri, Calle 21 esquina N Vedado
Average cost per person: “inexpensive”
The only good thing about the dilapidated Hotel Capri is the small Italian restaurant on its top floor. Looking out from 19 floors above central Havana and the sea, you can sometimes see Florida on a clear day. The views of the Malecon and Old Havana are some of the best in town. The food is cheap and cheerful, with plenty of pastas, risottos, and grilled fish and meats. Don't bother ordering starters here. A main course of spaghetti with shrimp in a white wine garlic sauce is always tangy and satisfying. The wine list boasts more than 100 selections and prices are reasonable. Check out the 1990 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, which sells for about half the price it does in U.S. wine shops. Service is friendly and quick.
9. La Coruña, calle Gervasio, just off Reina, near Carlos Tercero, Centro Habana
Average cost per person: $6-8.00
Great Langosta Termidor (8 CUCs), in a massive plate/tray with rice, vegetables, etc. I thought price was an amazing rate quality/price. No view though.
10. Torressino, Malecon, 200 hundred meters West of the Spanish Embassy in Centro Habana).
Average cost per person: $10-15.00
A single lobster meal costs 15cuc, is full of flavour and comes with rice + beans, yucca, vegetables, soup, fruit and is way more than enough for 2 people. Tables are on a balcony overlooking the Malecon and the staff is incredibly friendly too.
11. El Flor de Loto, Calle Salud 13, entre Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana
Average cost per person: inexpensive
Great food (try the sweet and sour pork). Volumes of food and included side dishes (try the yucca), impressive service, great drinks and as air-conditioned a restaurant as you will ever find in Cuba (bring a light jacket). An open grill restaurant up the street from Barrio de Chin (Chinatown) - very good food, great portions, Cuban dishes and grilled items, good prices.
The rest is the usual criollo fare but let me tell you I never been to a restaurant in Cuba or elsewhere where the portions are that big. I mean huge you can order lobster, shrimp, ropa vieja (shredded beef), pork, etc. .And get this, the most expensive item is $9 that would be the lobster!!! And don't think you are gonna get only one lobster oh no you will be surprised how much they serve. You are gonna need a "cajita"(container to go) to give you an idea I paid for a party of four around $50 including drinks I mean beer and I had a cognac (courvossier) for $3. I’ve never seen a place this cheap.
12. Tien Tan, Calle Zanja y San Nicolás, Centro Habana
Average cost per person: $unknown
Seek out this small restaurant in the heart of Havana China Town, and taste the speciality of the house: res al hierro caliente (roast beef on hot iron), which is delicious. The food is authentic and the portions generous. Open until midnight.
13. La Guarida, Calle Concordia No. 418 e/Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana
Average cost per person: $12-17
The coolest place to eat in Havana is this small paladar (http://www.laguarida.com). Booking is essential as it is quite small but very popular (Telefono: 866-9047). Located on the third floor of an eighteenth-century townhouse in central Havana, the three-room restaurant is in a converted apartment that features a balcony and beautifully carved cornices with wooden shutters. It's like a small, funky yet hip restaurant in New York's Soho or the Latin Quarter in Paris. Don't worry about the dilapidated entrance and stairway that lead to the restaurant; it's just part of the experience. (The 1995 Oscar-nominated Cuban film, Fresa y Chocolate, was filmed there.) The food is thoughtfully prepared with a delicate touch. On a given night you might encounter a tangy and savory gaspacho soup or succulent fillets of snapper and grouper served with a buerre blanc sauce that shows just the right amount of lively acidity.
14. Hector’s Pizza, Calzada Infanta / San Rafael, Centro Havana
Average cost per person: $1
In downtown Centro Havana you will find the ultimate Cuban Pizza, made on a rooftop by Hector. Easy does it: when nobody is at the street just shout HECTOR! and he will show up. Tell him what you want, a large or small pizza, wait a few minutes and your pizza will come down in a basket. You will pay about 7 CUP Cuban pesos (about 30 euro cents) for a small pizza about 30 cm. Put the money in the basket and off you go!
15. La Torre De Marfil, entre Obispo y Orapia, La Habana Vieja,
Average cost per person: $10-20
If you are tired of heavy Cuban food or insipid international cuisine, eating at this small Chinese restaurant in the renovated part of Old Havana is a tasty alternative. Of course, it's not the quality of a Cantonese eatery in Chinatown in New York, San Francisco or London, but it serves clean, fresh and yummy fried rice, delicious wok-prepared vegetables and succulent pork and prawns. You can even have a Chinese beer with your meal.
16. Il Gentiluomo, Calle Obispo, behind El Floridita, La Habana Vieja,
Average cost per person:
Restaurant reviews of Havana inevitably mention the Floridita, where Hemingway sank an epic number of Daiquiris and it is this - rather than the cuisine or value-for-money - that is its primary claim to fame (the same applies to the Bodeguita del Media but in that case it was an epic number of Mojitos). If you were to order a pizza at the Floridita what you won't realise is that these are made in the kitchens of Il Gentiluomo, which it adjoins round the back. Far better to go there to start with, watch your pizza being made and ideally be entertained by a fabulous quartet while you're waiting (just as well as the service is fairly glacial; ask them to play 'Oye Como Va' or 'Chan Chan', rather than the more stereotypical fare). You'll save 30-50% over the Floridita's prices and be able to see what you're eating!
17. La Zaragozana, next to El Floridita, 352 Monserrate Street between Obispo and Obrapia. Old Havana
Average cost per person: moderate to expensive
I found it excellent value for money and I enjoyed the fact it was full of Cubans, unlike its more famous neighbor. With an excellent location in the Old Havana Historical Site, it offers a wide variety of dishes fish, lobster, shrimps, pork, beef, and chicken— and prices going from moderated to expensive ones. Lobster and shrimps cocktail, oysters, chickens, Spanish omelette, fried chickpeas with sausage and Serrano jam are some of its propositions, where the Spanish style prevails. Calamari rings, flounder steak, the family’s Paella, battered frog legs and several kinds of skewers. It is said they cook the best Galician soup in all Cuba. The restaurant is animated by guitarists, singers, and trios who make the visit more pleasant. Open Monday through Sunday, from 12:00 to 24. Snack/bar 24 hours, where it is prepared the famous specialities the Zaragozana sangria and sandwich. It services includes a special offer of tourism packages for 10:00 CUC with five options.
18. Microbrewery in the southwest corner of the Plaza Vieja
The food is passable, but for atmosphere and the beer, of course, I don't think you can beat the little microbrewery in the southwest corner of the Plaza Vieja
19. Hanoi Restaurant, Bernaza y Teniente Rey, La Habana Vieja.
Average cost per person: $5-10.00
Eclectic. Also known as Casa de la Parra (House of the Grape Arbor), this simple restaurant specializes in criollo and Vietnamese food, an unlikely combination until you remember that any foe of Uncle Sam's is a friend of Fidel's. The varied menu includes such dishes as arroz Vietnamita (with chicken, chorizo, and shrimp) and boniato cocido (boiled yam)
20. Café Taberna Benny Moré, Calle Mercaderes y Teniente Rey, La Habana Vieja
Average cost per person: $unknown
Named after one of the greatest Cuban musicians of all times, and located in front of Plaza Vieja, this was the first coffee-shop founded by a Spaniard back in 1772. Today you can listen to Cuban music of the 1940s while enjoying your meal. If you're lucky, the Buena Vista Social Club or another well-known Cuban band will be providing the backdrop for reasonably priced chicken with melted cheese or veggie sandwiches. It's not rock 'n' roll or rave or funk, but your older kids just may groove to the beat all the same.
21. Los Nardos, Paseo del Prado 563, across from El Capitolio, La Habana Vieja
Average cost per person: $4-15.00
12 oz Filet Mignon steak dinner was $12. Got there around 5.30 and had to wait for a table.
The menu has a few Spanish staples, including gazpacho, paella, and sangria, but mostly it's made up of huge, reasonably priced portions of standard meat, chicken, and seafood dishes. Everything is good, although unspectacular. The wine list is relatively large, and slightly overpriced, yet given the food prices it's worth the splurge for one of their better bottles.
22. Los Dos Dragones No. 311 Altos, First Floor entra Rayo y San Nicolas, La Habana Vieja.
Average cost per person: “ridiculously inexpensive”
This is a simple, rundown Chinese joint in the middle of Havana's small Chinatown. Don't be intimidated by the dilapidated entrance. Located on the first floor, the small dining room serves food that is fresh and delicious and ridiculously inexpensive. Wonderful seafood as well as chicken and vegetables are always available. The mouthwatering fried rice is a treat. Forget about the wine. It's cooked beyond recognition due to the poor storage conditions. Stick with Cuban beer. Service can be very slow, so bring a big cigar to sit out the wait.
23. D'Giovanni, Tacón 4, esquina Empedrado, La Habana Vieja
Average cost per person: $10.00
It already has great reputation and prestige among lovers of Italian cuisine. Not only is it famous for its food, but also for its atmosphere, situated in an old Colonial building with a beautiful patio in the centre, wooden veranda inside and a mural when you enter, occupying almost the entire wall. There is a lobster-tank where the clients can choose which one they would like to taste. From the second floor, the views of the bay are breathtaking. You can even sit at one of the tables on the balconies if you wish. On the first floor, there are several areas, including the patio and galleries. The building itself is beautiful, with its wooden floors and so on. On the second floor there is also colonial furniture; little tables with sculptures, mirrors, paintings, and an old lamp in the centre. The tables in the patio and the galleries on the first floor are all in a space in which natural elements predominate. Reservations are recommended.
24. Doña Isabel, Empedrado, esquina Tacón, La Habana Vieja
Average cost per person: $8.00
The main attraction of this place is its location, right opposite the bay, as well as the popular Cuban music band that usually plays there. Under the ample sunshades, there are a great many tables. Some of them can only be used at night, given that they are not sheltered from the sun. The grill is at the back and the dishes are prepared upon order. It normally takes about twenty minutes to prepare the food. The atmosphere is casual and it tends to get very crowded. Open 24 hours.
25. Café El Mercurio, Lonja del Comercio, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, La Habana Vieja
Average cost per person: $9.00
They don't have a great variety to choose from but the have moderate prices and they usually offer dishes of meat stuffed with fruit, olives and ham. You can eat inside, where there are some quiet tables or outside in the fresh air. They advertise themselves as a health food restaurant although they are not the most traditional, but they have become very popular even though they have only been open for a few years. The outdoor tables have a view of the Plaza de San Francisco de Asís with its surrounding church and colonial buildings. Inside there are dark glass walls, a bar in the back and a few tables. Outside there are tables with umbrellas surrounded by jardinères.
26. Jazz Café, opposite Meliá Cohiba, in Galerías Paseo.
Average cost per person: inexpensive
Although maybe not the BEST for food, but passable. Great atmosphere, great place, great music, 10 CUCs cover including food and drink. Jazz Cafe is popular modern jazz club, with chrome trimmed tables and fairly bright lighting; to be found next to hotel Melia Cohiba in shoping center, usually the best concerts are in Frideys and Saturdays. This is the top spot to search out Cuba's best and brightest jazz talents.
We had lunch near your casa at the Jazz Café across from Hotel Melia Cohiba. Good value for the money, great service, good décor and atmosphere and a fabulous view of the harbor and the waitresses in their black and white tux aren’t bad looking though a bit young. Some changes to the menu, drinks are still $1. A quarter fried chicken is $2.95 served with fries and rice but doesn’t include a drink as before. We order a medium hamburger 6 oz with fries $2 and shared an ice cream cake between us for dessert.
27. Golden Rain Bar(translation), near Plaza D’Armas.
Average cost per person: $2-5.00
“Decently” priced food. Healthy mix of Cubans and locals and served meals for about $2-$5. The drinks were cheap and the bands were excellent too.
28. Los Nardos, Sociendad Jeventud Asturiano across from the Capitolio on the 2nd floor
Average cost per person: $5.00
Good food at very good prices. ie lamb for CUC$4.50
29. El Castillo de Farnes, Av. de la Bélgica (Misiones/Edigio/Monserrate) 361
Average cost per person: $5-10.00
Notable as Fidel Castro's favorite hangout when he was a student, and the place where he and Che Guevara celebrated victory on January 9, 1959, this modest bar-restaurant is a good choice for a meal or a drink. You'll pay a little extra for the historical rush (which seems counterrevolutionary), but the shrimp dishes are good, and the Spanish and criollo cuisine is acceptable. Great place for ham sandwich, drinks, and people watching. “The best bar in Havana. Great drinks, brilliant atmosphere, superb and honest staff!”
30. El Palenque Calle 17 esquina 190, Siboney, Playa, Habana (next to PABEXPO).
Average cost per person: $10.00
Their specialty is grilled piglets. Excellent quality and reasonable prices (calculate about 10 CUC x person for a full meal with drinks).
31. Viejos Amigos in Chinatown just in front of “Los Tres Chinitos”.
Average cost per person: $unknown
Good food/good service/good presentation/good prices/good people … good experience.
32. Bodegón Criollo, San Carlos de la Cabaña Fortress
Average cost per person: $unknown
Located inside the walls of the largest fortress in the entire American Continent, this restaurant dishes up very tasty Cuban food.
33. Club Almendares, Calle 49c y 28a Rpto. Kohly.
Average cost per person: $8.00
Two restaurants in one location: one is a popular outdoor cafe that serves Italian thin crust pizza and pasta. Great prices, with entrees around US $5. The other restaurant serves lobster, paellas and Cuban cuisine, with dishes averaging US $8.
34. Don Congrejo, Calle 1ra entre 16 y 18 Miramar, Playa
Average cost per person: $15 to over $20
This is Havana's take on Joe's Stone Crab in Miami, but it comes across more like a cheap oceanside fish house outside of Barcelona, despite being in the upscale district of Miramar. Nonetheless, Don Congrejo's fish is second to none for quality, which is not surprising since the Ministry of Fisheries oversees the restaurant. Come for lunch; the view of the sea is refreshingly calming after spending some time in the hustle of the city. You can eat outdoors if weather permits. Crab, lobster and shrimp are prepared in just about every way imaginable. Fresh fish is always available; try the grouper or snapper. Plenty of good wines are available, with a list featuring more than 150 selections from France, Spain, Italy and even California. Ask Rene Garcia, an English-speaking and highly professional wine waiter, for his recommendations.
35. El Aljibe, Calle 24 at 7th, Miramar
Average cost per person: $10-20
Delicious and generous portions of roasted fish, roasted chicken in garlic and combination plates of chicken, rice and beans make this a popular place for good, affordable food. El Aljibe is authentically Cuban. Order the house specialty, which is a platter full of juicy roasted c chicken served in a flavorful meat sauce. Neither the waiters nor the chef will divulge the recipe for this wonderful sauce, but sources say it's made from fermented orange juice and drippings from the roasted chicken. The roasted pork or grilled steaks are very good also. Plenty of good wines are available, especially those from Chile and Spain, and they are well kept in a temperature-controlled cellar.
El Ajibe, is not cheap eating. The great all you can eat chicken with rice & beans is 12 CUC/per (if I remember correctly) and you will probably get out at close to 20 CUC per.
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