Flag down a Panataxi, then ask the driver before taking off if he wants to do it 'a la izquierda' i.e. without meter; 90% prefer that and with a bit of haggling you pay not more for the air conditioned ride than for one of the rusty old private taxis + have no worries about safety, the driver getting hassled by police etc.
Look for any American 1950’s classic car on the street, as it is a “colectivo” (communal) taxi. While they are not supposed to transport tourists, you will never be refused a ride, unless the driver’s route does not coincide with your general destination. Simply hold out your hand on the street, and practice saying one or two words indicating your destination…“Capitolio” (the capitol building, 5-15 minute walk from everything) or “La Rampa” (hip Vedado area)…10 pesos. If you pay $1, expect 15 pesos change. Share the ride with Cubans who will be polite, yet wonder why you are riding with them! Chat with the driver in your best broken Spanish, and he’ll tell you all about his cousins living in Miami. Back and forth around town for the day…2 bucks.
Late at night, when the bars close down, “los colectivos” no longer run, so the price for a private cab back to your Vedado casa is $3. They may quote you more, but when you indicate that you know the price, they will gladly drive you home for that amount.
For an occasional change of pace, take a “bicitaxi” (rickshaw-like bicycle taxi for 10 pesos), or a cocotaxi (tourist motorcycle-type coconut shaped contraption for a couple of bucks).
If you're a real "Ma and Pa Kettle" type tourist with Bermuda shorts, black socks and sandals, wearing a Hawaiian shirt with a camera slung around your neck muttering, "Toto, I don't think we're in Kansas Anymore!" expect to pay 8-10 bucks for a horse and buggy ride down through Habana Vieja or El Malecon. However, beware of any drivers who look like Cosmo Cramer, as their horses may have been fed “Beefarino”!
Never take OK taxi's (too expensive), and be wary of the metered taxi's. From Centro to the Viazul station was 10CUC metered (in the car our casa called for us), would have been 6-ish by Panataxi (which was the amount we'd told the casa we thought we would pay)
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