Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Things to See and Do

El Malecon (seafront)

The Malecon perfectly sums up Havana. In any other country, a sea front area like that would be a tourist focal point….but in Cuba? The busiest road in Cuba doesn’t even have a pedestrian crossing there. The buildings are ramshackle at best but somehow it is one of the most beautiful sites I have seen. Looking out over the Atlantic, the sun going down, the contrast of old and new Havana, kids jumping off rocks into in the choppy surf, the laughter of the local fishermen.

The Malecón runs for about five kilometers, from the entrance of the Bay of Havana - in the east - to the west, with a capricious design parallel to the irregular coastline, which is bathed by the warm waters surrounding the island. In addition to its beauty and centennial history, Havana's Malecón is a major element in the city's road order, since its six lanes (three in each direction) allow for a fluid circulation of vehicles. Contrary to winter seasons in Cuba, when the sea jumps over the wall, a true avalanche of people invades the Malecón in Carnival times, expressing their happiness and enjoyment, so typical of people who love their culture. For many, the place is considered the true pulse of the city, a loyal reflection of its inhabitants' life, loves, games, sadness and meetings, all these in a strip that is just a few kilometers long. During the early years of the 20th century, the Malecón was an area of public baths, where the city's dwellers enjoyed the warm seawaters, keeping the strict reserve between men and women dictated by the customs of the epoch. Along the Malecón, people can enjoy the sight of buildings and statues that have become landmarks in the island's traditions, such as the Riviera Hotel and the monumental Nacional Hotel, or a place dedicated to the memory of Calixto García, an outstanding figure during Cuba's war for independence in the 19th century. For both visitors and locals, the Malecón wall is also a favorite place to escape from the night heat that characterizes summers in the largest Antillean island, where thousands of people go to enjoy the sea breeze or just spend a pleasant time outdoors. Many families go to the Malecón to look at the blue waters and the many ships crossing over the horizon or entering the Port of Havana, with no other purpose than letting time pass in the company of the charms of the famous road.

The Malecon is a 7-kilometre sea wall in Havana Bay that runs along one of the main arteries of the city. It is an absolute must-see because it is so important to and ingrained in the pysche of Havana's residents. It's often called the "soul" of Havana. The Malecon is exactly how fiction and non-fiction books describe it. Lovers sit cuddling together, locals play and fish, husslers hussle saying "Hey man, where do you come from?" , teenage jineteras cat-call and make dreamy eyes at tourist men (whether the guy's with his girlfriend or not!). One nasty girl in cutoff jeans spread her legs wide as I walked by. Yikes! We sat down for a few minutes and enjoyed the incredible view of the bay. It's a strange, fantastic place. How can somewhere seem so dangerous and peaceful at the same time? During the winter the sea breaks against the wall can crash water up over the wall onto the sidewalk. The building of the Malecon was started in 1901 and parts were gradually added until 1923. Locals use the Malecon a place for a quick swim, somewhere to fish, somewhere to party, and some still bring offers to the ancient gods. Kids play on the rocks between the wall and the ocean. Lovers use it as a romantic meeting place to sit, look out across the blue, watch the ships and the sunset, and relax.

You must stop at the castle 'Los Tres Reyes del Morro',a museum with typical colonial armament and a brief history of Havana and its defensive system. Also these castle houses,the lighthouse that shines all night long, You can climb up the stairs and there's a beautiful view of Havana and of course, the malecon :) Near this castle you can find 'La Cabaña' where a special ceremony takes place each night, 'El cañonazo', at 9. It's a ceremony where an old cannon (from the late 18th century) is fired to the bay, all this with the typical suits and command voices of that time. You can taste with your own hands our ancient buildings. You can see people of all over the places walking together. And of course, don´t miss the sunset in the malecon...you´ll love it!!

La Bodeguita del Medio (Hemingway Bar), Empedrado No. 207 La Habana Vieja,

Sure it's a tourist trap, but that's no reason not to enjoy yourself at this funky and famous bar/restaurant. The atmosphere is great. Get there early for either lunch or dinner, since it's packed with busloads of tourists at mealtime. Many don't even bother buying a drink or meal and simply overcrowd the place to have their photographs taken inside. The food is criollo, with plenty of roasted pork and chicken dishes as well as black beans, rice and root vegetables. It's simple, rustic and satisfying. Service can be jaded and surly. They obviously don't need most people's business. El Bodeguita was supposedly one of the favorite drinking holes of Ernest Hemingway, and he reportedly always drank mojito cocktails at the bar. He would be appalled at the quality of the mojitos today. They have resorted to using unaged cane alcohol for the drinks, making them taste like sweetened firewater. Order a mojito with three-year-old rum instead.

La Floridita, Obispo No.557 esq. a Monserrate

Famous Hemingway hangout (and regular stop on the tourbus circuit), and birthplace of the daiquiri, El Floridita is expensive but the seafood dishes are good. The restaurant is one of the most formal and exclusive restaurants in the old city.

I consider myself somewhat of a cocktail expert. The Floridita makes the BEST cocktail I have EVER tasted anywhere. Some might call the place overpriced ($6 cocktail). At least you're getting quality for your money here) and over-touristy. But the décor was perfect 1920s; we just loved it, and thought of a few friends back home who would love it, too.

The food here is acceptable but can't justify the hefty price tags. If you do stick around for a meal, stick to the seafood. The sautéed shrimp, which is prepared tableside, is a good bet. I recommend El Floridita mostly as a cool and refreshing place to stop for a drink in the middle of a hot afternoon walking around Old Havana.

Fabrica de Tobacos Partagas (Cigar Factory), Casa del Habano Partagas, Industria No. 320

Visit the Cigar factory where some of the most famous cigars in the world are made.

This was one of the most authentic Cuban things to do and not to miss while in Havana. Partagas is the oldest and the biggest and even if called Partagas, it manufactures plenty of quality cigars like Cohiba, Monte risto, Romeo y Julieta in various shapes and sizes. The employees need in average about 9 months of training to do any of the production stages - from leaves sorting to rolling and they enjoy priveleged compensation - about $40 monthly salary and the choice of 3 cigars per day. While a cigar is on average $10 no wonder they all do sell them:) You’ll get plenty of phone numbers and even the guides could 'guide' u how to buy half price authentic cigars - the ones in the shop price range is very comparable to duty free prices. This is your best source of authentic cigars - ask the guy to show u his employee badge, check the labels and the color, smoke randomly a cigar, bargain a lot and ull end up with a very nice deal:) nowadays ure not allowed to take pictures in the factory as probably the employees got fed up and tired of all touristy flashy but got a pic in the nice cigar shop:)

Tours every 15 min, 9:30-11:00 and 12:00-3:00. $10

El Laguito Cigar Factory

2302 Street 146 | Mariano, Havana, Cuba

Brilliant, wasn't that interested in cigars so nearly didn't go but for the sake of 10 pesos (approx £7) it is well worth 40 mins of your time, cannot believe there is not a single bit of mechanisation in the place. really interesting you cannot go to Havana without a trip round this factory.

Beaches (Playas del Este)

Taxi:15 minutes,15.00 cuc.

Panataxi white Russian Ladas no a/c 12.00 cuc.

Tell driver to drop you off at Tropicoco area.

Havana beaches are located 18 km east of Havana, a 15-20 minute cab ride from Habana Viejo. Havana beach, "Playa del Este" consists of four beaches in total. Two pairs grouped with two small towns which share names with two of the beaches. To the west Playa El Megano and Playa Santa Maria Del Mar are located by the town of Santa Maria Del Mar. East of this and separated by the Rio Itabo, are Playa Boca Ciega and Playa Guanabo.

Playa del Este" is also a major vacation destination for Cubanos from in and around Havana.
The beaches here are full of Habaneros on the weekends. The beach area contains numerous of restaurants, cafes and bars as well as limited water sports equipment for rental. There are also a couple of convenience stores, a pharmacy, and clinic, a supermarket and a couple of cigar shops.

The Playas del Este (Eastern Beaches) are just 20-30 minutes from Havana on the coast road to Varadero. Full of sun worshippers and local flavor, these sands have something of a daytime-disco-by-the-sea atmosphere. Although a morning of basking in the sun is conceivable, visiting the beaches is really more of a full-day operation. Take Vía Monumental toward Cojímar; 1 km (½ mi) beyond the second Cojímar exit, Vía Blanca splits off to the beaches.

The first beach is Bacuranao, 18 km (11 mi) east of Havana. Beneath the waters off this small, white-sand cove are coral reefs and an 18th-century Spanish galleon, making this a popular scuba diving spot. Look for the Villa Bacuranao, a bustling bar-disco that also has inexpensive cabins to rent.

Two kilometers (1 mile) east of Bacuranao is Playa Tarará, a small stretch of white sand that is home to the 50-berth Marina Tarará/Club Nautico, site of the annual July Old Man and the Sea Fishing Tournament. You can arrange boat rentals, yacht cruises, and diving or snorkeling excursions here.

Just 2 km (1 mi) farther east is Playa El Mégano, a quiet stretch of sand.

El Mégano is really considered a western extension of the main beach, Playa de Santa María, which runs east to the mouth of the Río Itabo. This happening area is home to the Hotel Tropicoco.

Playa Boca Ciega is another beach on the coast road to Varadero.

If you head still farther east, you'll come to Playa Guanabo, the least lovely of the Playas del Este but popular with surfcasters and joggers.

Driving 10 km (6 mi), you'll reach Santa Cruz del Norte, an industrial town that holds Cuba's greatest distillery, the Ronera Santa Cruz, where the ubiquitous Havana Club rum is made. Don't let the offshore oil rigs (or the less than pristine waters) deter you from continuing. Just 3 km (2 mi) east of Santa Cruz is Playa Jibacoa, the best and least spoiled of all the beaches near Havana. Nestled between headlands at the mouth of the Río Jibacoa, its white sands are backed by cliffs that overlook crystal clear, aquamarine waters. Divers will appreciate the coral reefs here; landlubbers can follow hiking trails from the beach into the back country.

Coppelia, Calle 23 y L, opposite Hotel Habana Libre

In theory, kiosks open 24 hrs, but in reality, Tue-Sun 1100-2230.
Ice cream is the passion of the masses - 30,000 a day are served. The one-time pleasure preserve of the bourgeoisie, Cubans wait and salivate, on average for more than an hour, for their daily ritual. Making up for decades of deprivation, they indulge with a frenzy, shunning cones on the go in favour of dollop upon dollop of ice cream, served atop slabs of cake and drenched with sauces. A visit to Coppelia is a must, as much for the ice cream as for the people-watching potential.

Coppelia takes up almost an entire block in the Vedado district, on a corner right in the centre of this popular zone. There are outdoor tables surrounded by gardens, as well as seating areas in a central building, with serving counters on the ground floor, and function rooms on the first. All the areas except one sell in Cuban pesos, which means low prices, but also a 30 to 40 minute queue. The price in local pesos is equivalent to approximately USD 0.05 per ice cream, but the choice available.

NH Parque Central Hotel, Rooftop Bar and Pool, Calle Neptuno E/ Paseo Del Prado Y Zulueta

Stayed at Parque Central for 3 nights, first class hotel with superb public areas - especially the lovely rooftop bar with a fabulous view of the city. We were told several times that the Parque Central has the best breakfast in town, and we certainly found it the best of the places we stayed.

Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja

Art market, every day except Sunday. Paintings $60-$200

When you take a shuttle or taxi to La Habana Vieja, they usually drop you off near the Plaza de la Catedral, which makes it the perfect spot to begin your journey through the old streets of the city. The Cathedral itself is definitely worth visiting; built in the 18th century, it is dedicated to San Cristobal. The Plaza surrounding the Cathedral is always full of life, with many tourists stopping for a drink at the nearby patio, musicians and other local people looking to make a few CUC by braiding your hair, wearing colorful costumes for pictures, etc. A great place to start and end your day in La Habana Vieja!

Museo de la Revolution, Calle Refugio #1, Habana Vieja

Just down the street from Parque Central. The Museum of the Revolution is a sight to behold. It isn’t meant to be funny, it is pure propaganda and if you are easily offended stay away. The first line that greets you at the start of the tour is “When the Yankee Imperialists Invaded our Country….” That sets the scene for the rest of it although the Che Guevarra room is excellent. It may be a very one-eyed look at their past but it is a good eye and worth a visit.

Plaza de Artisans - Flea Market, Calle Tacon

An artisans market with paintings, curios and souvenirs

I returned to one of my favorite spots the Plaza de Artisans open-air street market on Calle Tacón. Amid all the usual tourist kitsch you can find some interesting things: musical instruments (claves, maracas, guiros) and inexpensive paintings and jewelry. I found lots of new artists and lots more wood sculpture than I had found on previous visits. Within a few minutes of the Plaza de Artisans, you can walk to Taller Experimental de la Grafica on Callejon del Chorro, near the Plaza de Catedral which traces the history of engraving and has many pieces for sale. If you plan to buy valuable artwork, be sure to get the authorization de exportacion( authorization for exportation) issued by the Registro Nacional de Bienes Culturales to avoid complications with customs. Reputable art dealers will take care of this for you.

Parisienne Cabaret , Hotel Nacional

No visit to Havana is complete without taking in one of the famous Vegas-style cabaret shows at a local nightclub. The two most famous shows are the Tropicana Nightclub or the Parisien Cabaret in the Hotel Nacional, one of the best night-clubs in Havana.

The two-hour extravaganza features music, costumes, dancing and a celebration of Cuban cultural history. Tickets can range from $25 to $50 CUC depending on where you arrange your tickets. The cheapest seems to be to make direct arrangements and bookings through the front desk at the Hotel Nacional.

Tropicana Club, Calle 72, between Calles 41 and 45, Marianao

Show CUC$50-CUC$60; packages with transportation and dinner CUC$70

Accept no substitutes. This is the real deal. It's expensive -- in fact, overpriced -- but if you're going to see a cabaret show in Havana, it might as well be at the Tropicana. First opened in 1939, this open-air dinner theater is still the defining cabaret show in Cuba, if not the world. You enter the lush garden theater after passing the club's signature sculpted "Fountain of the Muses." Dinner service starts around 8pm and is an uninspired but acceptable affair. The show itself begins around 10:30pm. Once the show begins, the stage and verdant surroundings become an orgy of light, color, costumes, and pulsating movement. Scores of scantily clad showgirls and dancers seamlessly weave together a series of different numbers. The 2-hour-long spectacle covers most of the bases of popular Cuban show and dance music, from son to bolero to danzón to salsa, with a bit of Afro-Cuban religious music thrown into the mix. After the show, you can continue the celebration by dancing the night away at the adjoining Salón Arcos de Cristal.

Virtually every hotel and tour agency in Havana can book you a night at the Tropicana; some include dinner and a bottle of rum at the nightclub, others are just for the show (including a complimentary cuba libre), or include dinner first at El Ajibe or another Miramar restaurant. Packages with transportation and dinner are only slightly more than for the show alone, and are therefore a decent deal. Since it's open-air, rain cancels the function. You'll get your money back on a rainout, but they offer no guaranteed reservations for a makeup show.

Calle Obispo, just around the from Parque Central and the Capitolio.

We walked to the main bazaar from here - the Calle Obispo. This is a pedestrian only narrow street on either side of which are restored buildings, government offices, shops and restaurants. The sight from one end to the other is breathtaking, with colorful Cubans, tourists, and various street side vendors. Very bohemian with lots of galleries, shops, cafe's.

Plaza Armas

For Sunday bookfair

Free Market (hard currency) on Tacon in Parque Cespedes, at the waterfront just behind Castillo la Real Fuerza

For hand made souvenirs.

El Morro Castle, across from Bay of Havana

Canon firing at 9:00 p.m. ceremony. Make sure to climb Faro (the lighthouse) for a fabulous view across the harbour at old Havana.

El Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro and La Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana are located across the bay of Havana. From La Habana Vieja, you can easily take a taxi to get through the tunnel. Built in 1763, the Fortaleza is a great place to go when you feel like getting away from the bustling city to walk around and enjoy the view of Havana from across the bay and perhaps get something to eat at one of the restaurants located inside the walls of the fortress. From the Fortaleza, you can easily walk to the Castillo. The main attraction of the Castillo is the lighthouse that was built in 1845 and is still in operation today. Visitors are allowed to climb up to the top of the lighthouse to enjoy the beautiful panoramic view. If you know a bit of Spanish you can talk with the lighthouse keeper who'll explain how the lighthouse works.

Bocoy Rum factory, Fábrica de ron Bocoy, Calzada del Cerro No. 1417, Cerro

Here's the link to the Havana Club Fundacion website: HC Foundation

Alternative: the Havana Club Fundacion Outlet (San Pedro y Sol, Ave. del Puerto #262)

The Bocoy Rum Factory on Avenida Máximo Gómez in Havana (FCA De Ron Bocoy) was established in 1878 to produce both Ron Bocoy and also the Legendario brand. The word Bocoy is a Cuban unit of capacity from the 19th century. In Havana the bocoy was reportedly especially used for honey, = 6 barils, approximately 136 liters, and weighed 12 arrobas, approximately 138 kilograms.

Cuban rum is considered a liquor for great occasions whose origin goes back to the time when sugarcane was introduced to Cuba. Since then, it has become an irreplaceable companion to Cuban life. Cuban rum has its precedence in a beverage obtained from molasses during the sugar-producing process. It was initially used in rituals by African slaves brought to Cuba. Between 1762 and 1792, Cuba supplied the world market with rum, which didn't evolved into the genuine Cuban rum until the 18th and 19th centuries. It has since accumulated a rich history of tradition that has overcome the passage of time. Moreover, each distillery contributes a specific brand to the market, with aromas, tastes and colors, thus creating its own circle of connoisseurs.

For many vacationers who arrive in Cuba, the enjoyment of a glass of excellent rum is closely linked to a good Havana cigar. This is often why you will see them sold together in the same establishment. La Tienda El Roble Ron Tabaco Cafe (The Oak Rum Cafe & Tobacco Store) shares the Bocoy facility and one of the great pleasures of a tour is at the end when the bottles are lined up and patrons can sample the many different brands. At the far end of the room, cigars are available for the aficionado to purchase. It is considered impolite to not make a purchase following a tour and sampling session but Cuban rum is inexpensive, though high quality.

Plaza Revolution and Jose Marti monument and museum.

View from top is great. Postal Museum is right around the corner as well if you like stamps.

Plaza Vieja at the bottom of San Ignacio

For the tremendous architecture and also there's a microbrewery in the southwest corner.

Chinatown, just to the west of the Capitolo by a few blocks.

Walkable distance on Dragones at the south end of the Capitolo.

Castillo Real Fuerza, right off Plaza Armas

Very nice to walk through.

University of Havana (up near la Rampa and Coppelia)

Cemetary Colon, Near Plaza Revolution

Many mausoleums and artistic graves. Very historic.

Parque Lenin

Very pretty. Las Ruinas for lunch.

Palacio de Artisania

The Palace of Artisans, with a Cafe and live music, watch out in particular for a lady called Carmen Flores who sings there in the day time, She is a wonderful character and has one of the most powerful voices I have ever heard

The Roof of Parque Central Hotel

For a view of Central Havana this is an fantastic place to take some pictures from. The Parque Central has a swimming pool and cafe on the top floor with unrestricted views across Parque Central to the Capitolo building

Hemmingway Marina

You can visit the Hotel where Hemmingway wrote "For whom the bell Tolls" and for a nominal fee visit his bedroom which is now a mini museum with memrobilia from his life. This changes every few months, and is currently featuring his Africa trips

Mother Theresa's Garden

Mother Theresa's garden is a little corner in Old Havana which is dedicated to the memory of Mother Theresa. In the garden is a tiny Greek orthodox Church you can visit as well which was a gift from Castro to The Greek Orthodox church as he used ot be Greek Orthodox. The Garden is next to the Plaza that has the Statue of St Francis near the docks

Capitolio Building

On the steps of the Capitolo building is a great photo opportunity. You can also get your picture taken and developed with an original Kodak Box camera for 1 cuc. A great picture spot. The old Capital building of Havana is now used as a museum. This spot gets crowded during the day, so I found you get a better picture later in the afternoon after all the day tours have left. A couple of locals take pictures using very very old style cameras. The pictures only cost 1 peso and aren't very good quality, but its worth just to sit on the steps and check out all the people going by as you wait for your picture to develop.

Tourist visiting the old village of San Cristobal de La Habana often ask for the location of this building, considered the second highest spot in the city. Machado, the president under whom the capitol was build, from April 1, 1926 to 1929, was proud of saying that havana capitol was bigger than Washington capitolio. Figures are also impressive, since the building cost nearly 17 million pesos, a very high amount of money at the time, and 8,000 specialized workers took part in its construction. Regarding construction materials, five million bricks, 38,000 cubic meters of sand, 40,000 cubic meters of rocks, 150,000 bags of cement, 3,500 tons of structural steel and 2,000 tons of iron bars were used in the works. It is precisely this condition which attracts the attention of both Cubans and foreigners, also interested in posing in front of old cameras, one century old, true photographic relics on their tripods, which allow them to perpetuate in an image the memory of a building of monumental architecture. Artists of photography proliferate around the building, ready to meet the demands of passersby, and to manipulate, in a very professional way, their cameras, which bear the imprint left by the passage of several decades. The Capitol houses treasures such as the statue that represents the Republic, which was made by Italian artist Angelo Zanelli and is considered the world's third largest sculpture indoors. The building has played its role in Cuba's history, since its halls hosted the Constituent Assembly and witnessed the enactment of the Constitution in 1940. After the triumph of the Revolution in 1959, the Capitol became the headquarters of the Academy of Sciences of Cuba, first, and of the Ministry of Science, Technology and Environment (CITMA), later. Among the activities held in the spacious halls of the Capitol are meetings, exhibitions, solemn acts and business events, and the personnel working there is embarked in spreading the historic and architectonic heritage of the building.


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