An extra day in Havana and other news

Good news! Just found out from our travel agent that our flight time has been moved up from 5:30pm to 6:20am, effectively giving us another day in Havana. Since our flight goes into Varadero, we'll now be taking the 2 hour bus trip to Havana during the daytime when we can actually see some of the countryside. This should put us into Havana by early afternoon, so we'll be able to check out Habana Vieja, have lunch/dinner, and even hit some bars. Much better than arriving after midnight!

We've booked a one day tour with a local guide for the 2nd day of our trip to orient ourselves to the city, learn more about it's culture and history, and hopefully experience a few things we wouldn't on our own. The plan is to start at 10:00am at the Museo de la Revolucion, then take a walking tour of Habana Vieja.

I've been in touch with Not Just Tourists again, and it's confirmed that we'll be able to take up to four suitcases (1 each) of medical aid. We've submitted a request to Sunwing for an exemption to their baggage weight limit. We're allowed 20 kg, and the NJT suitcase is 10 kgs. With a fee of $10 per excess kg, this could be an expensive proposition if we don't get the exemption. Hopefully we'll get a favourable reply soon.

Spanish class goes well. My vocabulary, pronunciation, and written comprehension are progressing nicely, but I'm beginning to realize how difficult it is to converse in a new language. When asked a question, I will normally have a long pause with a blank look on my face while I translate the question internally to English, try to formulate some type of reply in English, then try to convert it to Spanish. As often as not, what comes out at the end of this long process is, "No entiendo". Sad.

Cuba photos

Here are some great sites with photos of Havana and other Cuban places of interest - stunning - can't wait to see the real thing!

Rado Vleugel: http://www.cuba-photos.net/category/havana-i

Kees Terberg: http://www.pbase.com/terberg/cuba&page=all

Atsushi Tsunoda: http://flickr.com/search/show/?q=cuba

Donde esta el bano?

In my quest to expand my Spanish vocabulary beyond "dos cervezas por favor", I signed up for an introductory Spanish class at the local college. Last night was the first of eight three hour classes - I'm certain to be fluent by the end. OK, maybe not, but I should at least be able to order three beers.

The class of approx. 25 is comprised almost entirely of Anglos vacationing in Spanish speaking countries, except for one young couple who is moving to Costa Rica. Ages were mainly early 20's or over 50, not alot in between, about 75% female.

Anna Maria, our teacher, is originally from Columbia and very enthusiastic. She has that happy, easy-going personality that is typical of Latin-Americans, and is one of the reasons we frost-burned Canadians like to travel there. Having only learned English during the past 4 years, she seems patient and understanding of our comical struggle with the rolling rrrrr's and different vowel sounds.

Previous post on this discussion

How we chose our casa - Casa Antigua

There were several factors we considered while deciding where to stay. What do we want to be close to? What do we not want to be close to? What features were we looking for, i.e. number of rooms, cleanliness, view, balcony or patio, single storey vs. multi storey? Price did not seem to be a factor, as the going price for rooms seemed to be in the $25-35CUC range for anything we'd be interested in.

With four guys, we'd need a place with two rooms, two beds per room, and our own bathroom. Of course, clean and well-kept was preferred. We had visions of sipping rum and smoking cigars in the humid tropical air while enjoying the view, so a balcony or patio was important. I generally avoid apartment buildings if I can, despite the potential for view - just don't like the impersonal feel, weird smells, and the awkward confinement of elevators. Having never been to Havana and with none of us speaking any Spanish, hosts with a reasonable command of English and a willingness to provide advice would be a bonus.

OK, so, we now have a pretty good idea of what we want - time to figure out what district makes sense. There are four main Havana tourist districts : Habana Vieja, Habana Centro, El Vedado, and Miramar. Miramar is out - too far away from the action, and too posh - we were looking for a more "authentic" experience. Vieja seems like the main tourist centre, with the Malecon, tons of clubs and restaurants, and many historic tourist attractions. Great place to eat and party, but it's old and crumbly with mostly apartment buildings from what I can tell. Centro is similar to Vieja, except older and poorer, with not as many attractions, and more potential for crime.

Vedado looks like the place - a great compromise between the history, sights, and action in Vieja, and the upscale, more modern, and safe Miramar. Vedado was the pre-revolution upper middle class section of Havana, centrally located, and largely developed by Russians and Americans between 1930 and 1960. There's still plenty to see and do, particularly in the La Rampa section.

We began checking various casa listings on-line and found some promising apartments, but it wasn't until I stumbled across a fantastic article written by Al Dieste that we knew we'd found our casa: Casa Antigua. His favourable review was echoed by others on websites like Trip Advisor, so after checking with the guys, we decided to book it. I sent an email to Horacio and Marta, and held my breath while waiting for them to advise on availability. A day later, we got the good news that the rooms were ours. $30CUC per room per day, plus another $3CUC per person for breakfast if you want it. If you've read my previous posts, you may remember that we also have 2 hotel rooms at the Montehabana hotel - we don't plan to use them except for the first night, but they'll be there for backup.

For more information on Havana's districts, click here: Where to Stay in Havana - Districts
For more information on finding a casa, click here: Accommodations - Casas Particulares

Previous post on this discussion

Terry’s Havana Pub Crawl

Source: Terry, aka cheersterry

1.) Start in the rooftop bar at the Inglaterra Hotel – great view of Parque Central, the theatre, etc. Quiet, no one to bug you. Great mojitos. Have one and move on.

2.) Go down to street level and have another cocktail at their sidewalk patio bar, the Galeria La Acera del Louvre. Watch the street action. Lots to take in, but again, you're slightly removed from it.

Head directly across the street, through Parque Central, past the large groups of shouting men who are just about ready (it appears) to kill each other. Don't worry, they're simply discussing baseball. If you really want to see some drama, put a video camera on them - their decibel level (and hand gestures) will double.

3.) Continue straight ahead past the Art Museum until you get to the famous landmark (and tourist trap) the El Floridita where Hemingway spent a lot of time slurping back daiquiris. Wander in, have a look, have an overpriced daiquiri if you must.

4.) Exit, turn left, and at the end of the block (corner of Monseratte and Obrapia) there's two good bars, the open air Castillo de Farnes, and the Bar Monseratte where you enter through an old fashioned saloon style swinging door.

5.) The Castillo de Farnes is a great people watching bar, the Bar Monseratte will be less hassle, and it has decent pub food and usually a pretty good band.

6.) Now, head back a couple of blocks to Obispo and take a right turn. There's several bars along this lovely stretch. Go into any of them that are rockin'. One of my favourites is the La Lluvia de Oro. Lots of tourists and well connected hustlers, and many times a good band.

7.) Continue down Obispo to the Café Paris. It's similar to the La Lluvia de Oro with good music and decent pizzas.

8.) Exit and make a right turn, south from Obispo, and enjoy a leisurely stroll down San Ignacio for 4 blocks until you reach Plaza Vieja. It has a lovely fountain (quite rare in Havana) in the centre. In the southwest corner is a trendy European style place that has its own micro-brewery. I forget its name. They have beer drinking contraptions that are about a metre high – you have to still be in a real beer drinking mood. Check it out as an example how Cuba can really screw-up a good idea.

9.) Go the northeast corner of the Plaza and you'll find one of my favourite classy places, the Taberna Beny More. Wonderful place.

10.) Exit and turn right, following one of my favourite restored streets, Mercaderes, back 3 blocks to Obispo, then another block further to O'Reilly. Turn left, and one block later slip into the O'Reilly Pub, and carefully negotiate the antique winding wrought iron staircase up to the second floor. Enjoy a moment of peace in the noise of Havana.

11.) After the 10 cocktail warm-up you've enjoyed to this point, you should be ready for some serious drinking by now, so turn left on O'Reilly and continue west for a couple of blocks until you reach the Bar Bilbao, one of the few truly Cuban bars left in the tourist section of Old Havana.

It's a dump. They don’t particularly encourage tourists, but once you’re there, its great. Have some real Cuban Pesos on you (not Convertible Pesos) and enjoy a double rum for 8 pesos, and a cigar for 1 peso. (1 Convertible Peso = about 25 Cuban Pesos. Do the math. We're talking cheap.) The decor - if you can call it that - is sort of interesting. The bar has been discovered by the professional soccer club from Bilbao Spain, and they have left all kinds of stuff all over the walls. Check out the poster of the Canadian Women's Soccer Team over the bar - in the bottom corner it says "We Love Terry and Wild Bill."

Go one block south, back to Obispo, and walk back to Parque Central.

At this point you've had a decent tour from Parque Central, down Obispo, through a few sections of Old Havana and back to your hotel. It's only a thumbnail tour though - there's a ton of great places I haven't mentioned.

The night is still young, and you have loads of time to start some serious drinking and dancing.

Have fun.

Wild Bill’s Havana Pub Crawl

Source: Bruce Hughes, aka Wild Bill

Check out Potato’s video of the pub crawl here: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8689510088893672521

This pub-crawl has been used several times and is totally reliable in obtaining the desired result – a moderate state of inebriation. One crawl included my sister’s family, two of her friends’ families (including one Canadian Provincial supreme court judge and a couple of teenagers) and still yielded satisfactory results.
This can be either an evening, or an afternoon (this write-up assumes an afternoon).

We usually start in the bar at the Inglaterra Hotel – ideal because everyone knows where it is, the architecture is great (Arabian tiles), and it simply is a good bar. Plus the wimps can have a coffee first to line their stomach.

Then head out directly across the street, through the Parque Centrale through the groups of shouting men. These fellows act like they are about to kill each other – what is actually happening is they are debating baseball….who has the best pitcher etc.

Continue straight ahead past the Art museum and you see a busy street and a pedestrian mall (simply a street where traffic has been banned). At that corner, is the famous Floridita bar/restaurant. This is where Hemingway actually spent a LOT of time and where tour buses now unload tourists to be fleeced. Wander in and take a look – interesting pictures on the wall –but outrageous prices …$6 for a daiquiri.

OK, now time for a drink – continue alone the busy street (Monserrate) one block south and you come to 2 good bars:
- One is open air – one of the best “people-watching” bars in the city

- The other has an old-fashioned swinging bar door (I think this is called the Monserrate bar). Actually there are some good snacks here….I recommend the garlic shrimp. And there often is a band.

One block east, at the corner of Brazil and Bernaza is the Hanoi Restaurant – this attracts both Cubans and budget travelers…..a complete mea for $3, and its very good for the price. Plus one of the cheapest places for mojitos in Havana Vieja.

Now back a couple of blocks north to Obispo and take a right turn. Several bars but the most activity is probably in the Lluvia de ora….lots of tourists, but usually a good band.

Then continue on Obispo to the Café de Paris ….similar….usually music and decent pizzas.

Now head south 5 blocks to a big square (I think this is the Plaza Vieja) which has recently been totally renovated with E.U. money. Very nice. At the south-west corner is a fairly large bar/restaurant. Good BBQ and other food, and interesting atmosphere (they have a beer drinking contraption that is about a yard/meter high – you have to be in a REAL beer drinking mood.

Now head back north, one block PAST Obispo to Calle O’Reilly (a good Cuban name). Turn left and there is O’Reilly’s on O’Reilly. Downstairs is nothing special, but head up the winding metal staircase. A moment of peace in the noise of Havana. Unique.

Now we’re getting our second wind so time for something serious. Continue west on O’Reilly and you come to a dump named Bar Bilbao. This is the only true Cuban bar left in centeral old Havana. It’s fun to watch tourists stop at the door, look in, and then decide "nope". Actually the “décor” is interesting – this bar has been discovered by the professional soccer club in Bilbao Spain and they have left all kinds of stuff all over the walls.

They don’t particularly encourage tourists but once you’re there, its great. This is where I bought the adults in my sister’s group of 7 adults a round of double rums and a cigar – total bill was $1.75. AND THOSE WERE REAL DOUBLES. A single rum is 5 pesos and a cigar is 1 peso (that’s non-convertible pesos). A peso is equal to a nickel.
The trick here is to have some “nationale” money….non-convertible. So when he brings your order you have those pesos out. Otherwise they might try to ding you tourist prices in convertible pesos – just act like you know what you’re doing.

About this point, the organized tour tends to kind of fall apart. You can find your own way from here.

One restaurant recommendation however. Head back over to “the Prado”, that the street that runs in from of the Inglaterra (where you started) and runs north up to the ocean. The real name of the street is Paseo Marti, but evryone calls it Prado. Anyway there is an Italian restaurant (not the one at the corner of Neptuno)….it’s farther north….I think the number is #168, its on a corner. Anyway it has VERY good pasta and pizza for about $3.50 each. Highly recommended.

Medical Aid – Not Just Tourists

Source of first hand experience: Freedom Ryder

Not Just Tourists is a non-profit organization providing much needed medical supplies for Cuba and other countries in need: http://www.notjusttourists.org/. Canadians traveling on vacation or business deliver these supplies to a hospital or clinic in their travel destination.

The last time we brought NJT suitcases on a Sunwing flight the rules had changed. We were told that we would be charged $100.00 for a 10kg suitcase for the Humanitarian Aid.

All we had to do was deliver the suitcases in Cuba and get a letter signed from the Doctor, Clinic or where ever the suitcases were being delivered to prove it was actually Humanitarian Aid and it was delivered.

Once you return home you submit the receipt and letter to Sunwing and a cheque will be sent to you for the $100.00 you were charged by Sunwing. Rainbow has done this also and submitted the bill and was reimbursed just as they said they would. The last trip Rainbow and I took on Sunwing we were prepared to pay the $100.oo fee. The nice lady at the check in counter put it through as dive gear along with my dive bag and did not charge us. The NJT bag went with the clothing and the scuba gear went off to a separate loading place.

Prior to traveling with Sunwing again notify them that you would like to bring a NJT case and they will tell you what their policy is regarding that.

Additional first hand experiences and information here: http://debbiesreviews.proboards88.com/index.cgi?board=NJT

Beware These Common Scams

Sources: Potato: Cuba-Junky
Jorn Nielson, Milk Scam

Violent crime against foreigners is (almost) unheard of, and the so-called “scams” in Cuba are invariably bush league when compared to other destinations in the developing world.

You’re (usually) looking at losing a few bucks, and a bit of pride, that’s all. No big deal. (There's always exceptions, of course, so don't make the mistake of blindly jumping on the "Cuba Is So Safe" bandwagon to the point where you're being stupid. Sadly, it's NOT as safe as it used to be!

1. Violent Crime: Still (almost) unheard of - against tourists, that is. (Cuban to Cuban is a different story.) Like the Royal Canadian Mounted Police of olden times, the Cuban Police always “get their man.” I doubt there’s any place that can boast the almost 100% success rate for solving violent crime that the Cuban police do. Justice is swift and brutal. Result: Your chances of being shot, knifed, raped, car jacked, etc. are minuscule.

(That said, I’ve had one very good friend and one mutual acquaintance - both foreigners - murdered in Cuba. They were both being very stupid, and put themselves in situations that anyone with the slightest bit of common sense would never consider. Their murders are a complete non-issue to the average, smart traveler.)

2. Snatch & Grab: Unfortunately this is becoming more common in tourist areas. Never stroll

around with your purse/knapsack casually slung over your shoulder. Never carry a camera in your hand without strapping it to your wrist. Many times the Snatch & Grab thieves work in pairs, with one riding a bicycle, thus offering both thieves a quick getaway.

3. Pickpockets: Unfortunately, this is now rampant in some areas. If you’re being jostled in a crowd situation in Havana or Santiago you will suffer pickpocket attempts. It’s inevitable.
I don’t have much sympathy for the victims though, because pickpocketing is one of the very few crimes that is 100% preventable. A pickpocket can’t magically teleport something from you. A pickpocket has to physically get their hands on your belongings. Inside pockets, properly secured, and measures like money belts, etc. make pickpocketing almost impossible. Be prepared, and this very common crime becomes a non-issue.

4. Other Thievery: Never leave your belongings unsecured. Sitting a purse down on a bench and looking away for a moment is asking for trouble. Minor crimes of opportunity are very common, so don’t give anyone the chance.
Most unique bit of thievery I witnessed: A purse stolen because it was left too close to a window – the thieves reached in through the security bars with a long stick, and silently spirited it away.

5. Money Exchange: Take a calculator with you so you know the exact amount of Convertible Pesos coming to you. If you don’t have a calculator, do NOT accept any transaction that doesn’t come with a printed receipt. No printed receipt invariably means that you’re being short-changed. Ripping off tourists during money exchange transactions has become a very common occurrence.
There are no service charges to exchange money at a bank, so don’t listen to that crooked teller – demand honest service.
Lots of Cubans working money exchange scams, including the flight check-in personnel at the airport. It goes without saying that any traveler is an idiot to exchange money anywhere except at a proper institution, or between trusted friends. (And as noted above, even at the bank you have to be frigging careful.)

6. Counterfeit Money: Counterfeit Convertible Pesos are quite common now, and not just in Havana. To familiarize yourself with how the money looks, and the security features, have a look at this website

7. Credit Cards: Never let your credit card out of sight, and always keep your carbon copies. Twice I’ve had monster cash advances taken out on my credit card, and processed through Spain. I discovered it when I tried to book a flight, and my credit card was maxed.

8. Restaurants and Bars: Never run a bar tab – always pay as you go. Keep a menu so you can compare the final bill against the real prices. In some places like Barrio Chino (Chinatown) in Havana it’s a given that your bill will always be padded.

9. Fake Menus: The Bar Nepuno in Havana is a typical Cuban bar of very questionable repute, just down the street from my casa. A beer or a mojito is $1.
I can’t count the number of times as I’ve walked home that I’ve saved distraught tourists from that little shit-hole because they’ve allowed themselves to be talked into buying their new “fren” a drink, and after a couple of rounds discover their bar tab is $75. When they express outrage/dismay, a “menu” is quickly produced by the bartender, showing a mojito going for $7.50. Always ask the price, before you buy.
(By the way, I reached behind the bar once and stole the fake menu. It’s now framed, on a wall in my casa. It’s a source of great hilarity for Cuban friends.)

10. Taxis: If you’re not running the meter, always confirm the full price before you start the trip. The metered rate is the same as anywhere else – simply what the meter says, and no more. Some taxi drivers will try and convince you the tariff rate, kilometre rate and the taxi rate has to be added together. Pretty funny, actually.

11. Customs Duty Coming Into Cuba: If you have too much luggage, or you’re carrying something suspect (ALL luggage is X-Rayed upon arrival in Cuba) you’ll be red-flagged and hauled into Secondary Inspection.
Cuban Customs Regulations are quite simple and straightforward. If you’re trying to bring in something out of the ordinary (especially electronics) familiarize yourself with the regulations and refuse to pay any duty that is not correct. Waving a copy of the Regulations and not speaking Spanish is actually an advantage in these situations. (I derive perverse pleasure from hassling crooked Customs Agents.)

12. Overweight Baggage Charges Exiting Cuba: The all-inclusive crowd always gets hit with this scam. When you’re leaving home always check the exact weight of your checked luggage at the airport. When the Cuban check-in agent tries to tell you you’re overweight on your return leg, don’t put up with that crap. Canadians in particular are singled out for this scam because they’re too polite, complacent and easily bullied. Cuban check-in agents would never try to pull this stunt on a plane full of Italians.
(I’ve seen weights taped to the back side of the scales at Varadero, and when I made a big scene they all expressed horror at the deception, claiming the “other shift did it.” Very, very funny.)

13. Cigars: The cigars you bought from your best friend bartender/guide/cleaning lady/taxi driver who has a father/brother/uncle working at the cigar factory are counterfeit. They were not taken from the factory, they are counterfeit. No matter how well you know your fren, they are counterfeit.

- I’m not saying they’re bad cigars.
- I’m not saying they weren’t a great deal.
- I’m not saying you won’t enjoy a good smoke.

I’m simply saying they’re 100% fake. Accept this, get over it, and enjoy them.

More information on how to recognize authentic Cuban cigars here: http://www.cigarnexus.com/counsel/counterfeit/

14. Rum: Fake rum is available everywhere where ther’s tourists. Your new “frens” will always have a “special” deal where they can get Havana Club 7 year at a much better price than the store. Obviously, it’s all fake.
Unlike fake cigars though, fake rum can be dangerous. Quality varies from quite good, to ut-rot that’ll just about kill you. Always buy your booze from a government vendor. (Unless, like me, you have a fabulous still, turning out some great booze...)
Another place where rum is scammed a lot is in clubs. It’ll be real rum – just not the stuff you ordered. In other words, the $25 bottle of Havana 7 year will be cut with cheap 3 year. The only way to be sure you’re receiving what you ordered is to insist that the seal is unbroken.
I ordered a bottle recently at the National Cabaret, and the seal was broken. I sent it back, and the new one arrived the same way. The Manager got quite irate with me, but to no avail. Finally, after a 10 minute wait, a sealed bottle arrived. One of the waiters was an acquaintance, and later that night admitted the Manager had to send a runner out to the store to buy a real bottle!

15. Milk Scam: If you plan to walk around the Havana Vieja you ought to be prepared for this scam. In all simplicity, you’ll be asked to buy some powder milk for a milk-starving child.

You’ll be approached by a mother with a little child on her arms, or a mother with a picture of a child, or a woman starting the conversation with, “This is not about money…”

Now, this “no-money-scam” will cost you at least 10-15 CUC and chances are that the powder milk will be sold back right after you leave the milk-store. Just think of it: If the woman succeeds only once a day, she’ll still be earning 10 times more than a surgeon!

16. Sick Relative: Walking home we are approached by a well dressed man. He is happy. We learn from his poor English that he is a professor at the University. He has just come from the hospital where his wife has just had their first child. We are congratulating him and shaking hands when he pulls out an empty medicine inhaler tube. He starts asking for $40 to buy medicine.

These people are called “jineteros.” It is the male version of the prostitute or female “jinetera.” The women are named as horseback riders for their acts with their clients. Usually they will hustle you by a story such as it being their birthday or some other special occasion and then ask for money. I offer him two pesos to go away. He drops his price to 20 and then 10. Finally he takes the 2 and leaves. You do what you must to survive.

Cigars, Rum, and Other Tourist Swag

Cuban Regulations (Arrival):

- Gifts up to $50CUC are tax exempt

- 10 kg (22lbs) duty free medical supplies PACKED SEPARATELY.

- Not Just Tourists prepares suitcases of medical supplies which can be couriered by tourists to a clinic: www.notjusttourists.org

Cuban Regulations (Departure):

Cuban Handmade Cigars in an amount exceeding 50 units (formerly 23) not having the Official Invoice from the stored where they were purchased.

If you acquire fresh paintings and sculptures in the points where they are sold, make sure that they have the Seal which authorizes their Export or request the corresponding Permit indispensable requirement to take them out of the country.

Cuban Customs: http://www.aduana.islagrande.cu/pasajero3.htm

Canadian Regulations (Arrival):

50 cigars, 40oz/1.14 litres alcohol

Cigars

One of my favourite Cuban cigar websites was put together by a fellow named Marty.
Check out: http://marty.514crew.com/cigarsmain.html
For beginner cigars, consider looking at a Montecristo #4. They're one of the best selling cigars in the world, and will only set you back a little over 100 CUC.
Fonseca Cosacos are good cigars for beginners too, and quite cheap at about 75 CUC.

Peso Cigars

They do not compare to the "export" brands. Depending where you go in Cuba, resort area or town/city, availability will vary. Look for any store and I mean ANY store that caters to Cubans (sells in CUP) and see if they have any. Don't look just for the "obvious" looking places. 25 cup/bundle, or $1.10cuc more or less.

Brands I've been able to find in Cuban stores include, Selectos, Statos, El Credito. You'll NOT find any sort of selection in Cuban stores. What they have (generally a single brand) is what you get. You'll find that as they are machine rolled you'll get some that are just right, but others in a pack are too tight and a hard smoke. But I've never felt guilty about tossing away a bad one because of the nickel price.

BTW, when returning through Canadian Customs, you declare Duty Free, your 2 boxes of "brand name" cigars and declare for duty the domestic cigars. Enjoy the look on the Custom's guy's face when you tell him the price!

Rum
Average rum prices are $3-$25, depending on quality and age.

Some brands worth trying:

Havana Club - available everywhere at various prices depending on age

Anjeo Santiago de Cuba - a very nice alternative to the Havana Club. Recent prices of 7-8.00CUC .

Caney – some consider it a much better bang-for-the-buck than Havana Club.

Gifts for Cubans

For casa owners, since it's true that they tend to be among Cuba's more affluent, I often take picture calendars (scenery or wildlife) of my home country, or pillow cases, since good linens are hard to come by in Cuba. For schools, just about any type of school supplies. Bright-coloured pencils and animal-shaped erasers (which you can get in any dollar store) are popular with the children--but be sure to take lots because if there aren't enough for the whole class there may be some reluctance to accept them. Give whatever you bring to the teacher or person in charge--NEVER to individual children, anywhere! Baseballs, softballs, and soccer balls also make good school gifts. You will see schools just everywhere, from downtown Havana to the most remote villages. The primary schools always have a small white bust of Jose Marti out front.

Other things to take, perhaps even more needed than school supplies: eye glasses and toothbrushes. You can probably get a zillion pairs of used eyeglasses from your optometrist or opthomologist, ditto toothbrushes and tubes of toothpaste from your dentist. These things are best dropped off at old folks' homes, homes for the disabled, or women's shelter. Underwear and wash cloths are also a good gifts to donate to those places. Simply give the packet of stuff to whoever is in charge, along with a comment along the lines that it is repayment for the hospitality you have received in Cuba. If you speak Spanish, it's fun and interesting to visit with people in those facilities, too. The staff tends to be highly dedicated.

I bring supplies to a school in old Havana … and a number of people I know.

The schools are always short of pencils, pens, erasers, markers, etc .Reading glasses are always requested .. from 1:25 to 2:50 ... I get them at the Dollar store ..The most requested clothing in order for children is 1: underwear 2:shoes, 3:socks (white), 4:tops, 5:shorts

Shoes, shorts, underwear, bikinis, spices, sunglasses, hats, umbellas, dolls (most cuban girls have never owned a doll), baseballs and bats, beach stuff, utensils(spoons, forks, etc.), tampons(swim anytime), cosmetics, coffee, coloring books and crayons, dental floss, suntan
lotion, popcorn kernals, canned tuna(not salmon), tools.

These days I carry a small battery powered Canon printer which makes a 4 by 6 inch print on the spot directly from the camera. After 35 years of printing my own photos it still seems like magic to me and kids especially are enthralled by the process.

A photo makes a highly personal gift that is always appreciated, is a small way of giving something back to the person who allowed themselves to be photographed and avoids the disappointment of the promised print that never arrives.

The most appreciated gift I have ever given to any Cubano was the doll I gave to my sobrina. I have bought many large appliances and even built an apartment, but I never felt more joy in the act of giving than in seeing the joy I saw in the eyes of this child when she first took the doll into her arms. She still has it, battered by many years, but no less loved.

Guitar picks, Guitar straps, Guitar strings, Hair ornaments/accessories iron (traveling) Kitchen gadgets (non-electric) Juice powder (to mix with cold water) Make-up (especially for eyes) Manicure accessories Milk - powdered plastic kitchen utensils Razors & blades (decent ones for special friends - pack in checked luggage) School supplies Shampoo Scouring pads SOAP Socks for men & kids. Spices (packets of cumin, cinnamon, garlic powder etc.) Stomach remedies Tea towels Teething gel for babies Toothpaste (Can be bought at resort) Toothbrushes (decent) Tap lights (with batteries) Underwear! VITAMINS (Especially E)

Clean out your closets, medicine cabinets, and desk drawers of the clutter, and take it to Cuba. Some things can’t be found, while other things, even a 25 cent bar of soap, are very expensive for the average Cuban.

Other ideas: hand cleansers, flashlights, glowsticks, safety pins, sewing needles, and
thread.

Prices and Travel Budgeting

Source: Havana Great Time in Cuba: Doing Havana Like a Cuban in Cuba, by Al Dieste

This fantastic article contains a wealth of first hand experience on where to stay in Havana, what to take on your trip, where to eat/drink/party, how to get around, and best of all, tips and average prices for the things you'll want to buy as a tourist.

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You’ll be playing tourist, so lunch on the street. Nothing fancy, just eat as do the Cubans…ham and cheese sandwich (40 cents), small cheese pizza (20 cents) “Cristal” draft beer (60 cents), ice cream cone (4-12 cents). By the way, every evening, stop by the corner “bodega” (market) and buy a 60 cent 1.5 liter bottle of water. Freeze it overnight, and you’re ready to hit the hot streets the next day.

Dinner at any number of middle-of-the-road restaurants anywhere in town costs $3-$6 for chicken, pork, or fish, usually coming with rice and black beans, small salad or French fries. Every once in a while, splurge for dinner at a nicer restaurant with air conditioned comfort, linen table cloths and napkins, and attentive waiters, for $10...

The full article can be found here: http://www.escapeartist.com/efam/40/Cuba.html

Money and Currency Exchange

CUC = Cuban Convertible Peso.
CUP = Peso Cubano "Moneda Nacional"

1 CUC = 24 CUP

1 CUC = 1.14 Canadian dollars (as at August 21, 2007)

Currency calculator here: http://coinmill.com/CUC_calculator.html

There are two currencies in Cuba, and there exists a virtual currency apartheid between the tourists who will pay for most goods and services in CUC’s, and the Cubans who will pay for most basic goods and services in CUP’s. Some services such as entrance to events, museums, or even ice cream at Copellia’s are much cheaper for Cubans in CUP’s than for tourists.

The official currency in Cuba is Cuban Peso (CUP), divided into 100 centavos (cents). Notes can be of 1, 3, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 pesos. Coins can be of 1, 5 and 20 centavos, and there are others of 1 and 3 pesos.

The Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) was introduced by Cuban financial authorities to take foreign currencies out of circulation, offering an alternative that is somewhat equal to US dollars. It replaces the dollar as currency where previously dollars were quoted in places such as hotels, restaurants and so called 'dollar shops', and is the new 'tourist' currency. US Dollars were widely accepted throughout the island, but since 8 November 2004 US Dollars are no longer accepted, and a 10% commission is charged to exchange them. The national banks have since introduced the Peso Convertible (CUC) in substitution of foreign currencies, which is almost equal in value to the US Dollar.

Travelers are advised to exchange money only at official exchange bureau’s or banks to avoid scams confusing the two currencies. Never exchange money using street hustlers who will offer you a great deal. These are almost without exception scams - there’s no deal to be had and you run a big risk of having your money stolen.

There is no prohibition on your use of either currency. As a tourist, most of the purchases that you are likely to make will be priced in CUC. There is no "special deal" either way.

Money can be exchanged at:

Bank or CADECA Money Exchanges

Airports

Hotels (poor conversion rates)

Cuba is like most other foreign destinations. You bring a major currency, then exchange it into the local currency to make purchases while you’re there. Cuban currency is NOT traded internationally, so you can’t buy it in advance. You buy it when you arrive in Cuba.

Here’s a good site with photos of all the different bank notes and currency:
http://www.webhavana.com/main.php?lang=en&page=cuba_currency.php

Accepted Foreign Currency: Canadian Dollars (CAD), Swiss Francs (CHF), Mexican Pesos (MXN), Japanese Yen (JPY), British Pound Sterling (GBP) and the Euro (EUR) are all accepted. Exchange rate is based on 1 Cuban Convertible Peso being equal to $1.08 US Dollars.

Always bring new(ish) bank notes, with no rips, tears or markings. All foreign coins are useless, so don't bother bringing any (and that includes all you Canadians with your Loonies and Toonies!)

CUP can be purchased at a bank or Cadeca. The latter are universally present - except when you want one. The conventional advice is to exchange CUC 5.00 to 10.00. I find that I use lots of them - to the disdain of at least one Cuban I know who has CUC tastes. Changing 20 CUC is plenty.

CUP is most useful for street purchases, finger food, bus fares, and purchases of fresh fruit & vegetables at agromercados. Use of either has nothing to do with linguistic ability. It's as easy to be "gypped" in either currency. If in doubt, tentatively offer a note of about what you think the item should cost. Your observation of the vendor will / should tell you instantly if you have made the right move or not.

I think it wise to change about $1 per day into pesos, so that you can pay the Cuban price of $1 MN (Moneda Nacional, or peso…4 cents), for what tourists often have to pay $1 CUC.

Bottom line: You CAN eat in Cuba using only CUP (pesos, or moneda nacional). You CANNOT buy lodging with CUP. For that you must have CUC (chavitas, or pesos convertibles). Transportation varies. The Viazul bus, usually Astro buses, trains, airport taxis, and most other taxis charge CUC. Urban buses and ferries across the harbor charge CUP.

The way to avoid getting ripped off is simple. From the time you do your first currency exchange in the airport, have a small calculator and figure out the correct change, count it carefully before leaving the window, and make sure it's right. ALWAYS ask for the printed receipt. If it's not right, ask (politely) for an explanation/correction. Ripping off tourists during money exchange transactions is a VERY common occurrence.

Do this for everything you purchase in CUC - maps at the map table, bills in restaurants and bars, gas stations, everywhere. Find out the price BEFOREHAND (not to bargain but just to know what it should be), and make sure that what you're charged is what it should be. Over-charging and/or wrong change tends to occur only with hard-currency transactions (CUC).
Overcharging is not common in casas. There it's more a matter of being clear on what the cost is to start with, and if you're taking meals there, what's included. For example, bottled beverages would NEVER be included in the price of a meal. Homemade beverages like coffee and lemonade should be--but ask to be sure. This (what's included) is a more serious problem in restaurants, where you may order a meal and assume that the roll and pat of butter comes with it--only to discover, when you get the bill, that you are being charged 1 CUC extra for each. So--if doesn't say on the menu that something's included--it's not.

As your Spanish is limited, I would recommend that you also carry a small pad, and when you're not absolutely clear on the price, ask the person you're dealing with to write it down.

Re getting your hands on some CUP, I have usually been able to change 1-2 CUC for CUP with the rest room attendant at the airport. I have never been charged CUC rather than CUP by farmers and street vendors. Cubans doing business in CUP have been, in my experience, scrupulously honest.

Do try to avoid bargaining (other than taxis and large purchases). It is very uncool -not to mention downright obnoxious - for someone who is on vacation and so much affluent than the locals (in Cuba or any other Third World country) to go around trying to knock working people down on the price of whatever goods or services they're offering. If you must bargain in order to enjoy your vacation, go into Hotel Nacional or one of the other glitzy hotels and bargain there.

Things you can pay for in CUP:

Street food
Ice cream at Coppelia (highly recommended)
Local buses

The longer you spend in Cuba, the easier it will become for you to 'sense' when to offer payment in CUC and when in CUP. Anywhere new(ish) and mainly frequented by tourists you need CUC. Anywhere grubby and exclusively frequented by Cubans you can get away with CUP. Bear in mind that towns where not many tourists go (Santa Clara springs to mind) it'll be relatively easy to find CUP places. It's also not widely known that the two currencies are completely interchangeable, so if you're buying something that costs for example CUP24 you can pay with a CUC1 note.

I change enough at the Airport to get to my hotel plus a bit for other things.

The next day I go to the nearest bank and change what I think I will need for the next 5-7 days. Do not change it all, unless you are like me and keep returning. Even then the exchange rate keeps getting better for me, so I don’t want too many CUC's left un-spent.

I return to Cuba often so I try to have enough CUC's left at the end of my trip to pay the taxi, Airport tax, Rum and cigars at the duty free and a bit for food and drink while I'm waiting for my flight. I would also make sure I have enough so the next time I get to Cuba, I can skip the Airport money change and get to my hotel.

When I change my money, if they give me a lot of $50's, I just change them them at the Hotel desk.

Some additional tips:

1. Service Charges: Don’t listen to a crooked teller. There are no service charges. (The mark-up on the exchange rate is very high in Cuba – that’s where they make their money – not on service charges.)

2.) Airport Money Exchange: Rates are no worse than exchanging at a bank or CADECA Money Exchange. Airport Exchange Offices are supposed to always be open when a flight arrives.

3.) Street Money Exchange: Lots of Cubans working money exchange scams, including the flight check-in personnel at the airport. It goes without saying that any traveler is an idiot to exchange money anywhere except at a proper institution, or between trusted friends. (And as noted above, even at the bank you have to be frigging careful.)

4.) Hotel Money Exchange: Forget about it. Way too expensive, at least in Havana. I assume the all-inclusive resorts would have to be better. The CADECA on Obispo Street in Havana – as with all their other offices I went too – were all open to 10:00pm, so it’s not a big deal to get money.

5.) Counterfeit Money: Counterfeit Convertible Pesos are quite common now, and not just in Havana. To familiarize yourself with how the money looks, and the security features, have a look here: http://www.bc.gov.cu/English/convertible_bills.asp

6.) ATMs: Not widely available, especially outside tourist areas. If your Canadian cash/debit card doesn't have a VISA symbol on it, then it will probably not work in Cuba. Cirus and Plus won’t work. Maestro and Cirrus is for interbank transactions on ATMs and won't work in Cuba - you need a card with a Visa/MasterCard logo. I look at ATMs as too much hassle, but some travelers like them. (Hate to think what you'd do if an ATM swallowed your card, which has been known to happen...)

7.) Credit Cards: Easy to get cash advances with any non-US issued credit card. Bring your passport for I.D. Getting a cash advance on your credit card ends up costing almost the very same - maybe even a bit less - than exchanging cash. (Remember to load up your credit card with cash before you leave home, so you're not hit with crazy interests rates...)

8.) Traveler’s Cheques: Personally, I don’t see the point. It costs a commission to cash them (anywhere from 3% to a whopping 6%)… they’re not always easy to cash outside of tourist areas… it’s very hit-and-miss if you can cash American based TCs like American Express… and if you lose them you can’t get them replaced while you’re in Cuba. They seem like a lot of trouble for very little convenience or security.

9.) Getting rid of your Cuban Convertible Pesos: You can exchange your left-over Pesos at the airport when you leave, but they screw you on exchange, and many times they’re short of foreign currency. Sometimes the only currency available is US Dollars, which they’ll make a straight exchange on, 1 for 1 with CUC.
A better way to handle it is to budget wisely during the last few days of your trip so you don’t arrive at the airport loaded with useless CUC. (Remember, you need $25 CUC per person for airport departure tax.)
Lastly, if you do have a pile of CUC, check where the Exchange Office is BEFORE you go through to the departures lounge – some airports may only have Exchange Booths before security.

Taxis and Getting Around

Flag down a Panataxi, then ask the driver before taking off if he wants to do it 'a la izquierda' i.e. without meter; 90% prefer that and with a bit of haggling you pay not more for the air conditioned ride than for one of the rusty old private taxis + have no worries about safety, the driver getting hassled by police etc.

Look for any American 1950’s classic car on the street, as it is a “colectivo” (communal) taxi. While they are not supposed to transport tourists, you will never be refused a ride, unless the driver’s route does not coincide with your general destination. Simply hold out your hand on the street, and practice saying one or two words indicating your destination…“Capitolio” (the capitol building, 5-15 minute walk from everything) or “La Rampa” (hip Vedado area)…10 pesos. If you pay $1, expect 15 pesos change. Share the ride with Cubans who will be polite, yet wonder why you are riding with them! Chat with the driver in your best broken Spanish, and he’ll tell you all about his cousins living in Miami. Back and forth around town for the day…2 bucks.

Late at night, when the bars close down, “los colectivos” no longer run, so the price for a private cab back to your Vedado casa is $3. They may quote you more, but when you indicate that you know the price, they will gladly drive you home for that amount.

For an occasional change of pace, take a “bicitaxi” (rickshaw-like bicycle taxi for 10 pesos), or a cocotaxi (tourist motorcycle-type coconut shaped contraption for a couple of bucks).

If you're a real "Ma and Pa Kettle" type tourist with Bermuda shorts, black socks and sandals, wearing a Hawaiian shirt with a camera slung around your neck muttering, "Toto, I don't think we're in Kansas Anymore!" expect to pay 8-10 bucks for a horse and buggy ride down through Habana Vieja or El Malecon. However, beware of any drivers who look like Cosmo Cramer, as their horses may have been fed “Beefarino”!

Never take OK taxi's (too expensive), and be wary of the metered taxi's. From Centro to the Viazul station was 10CUC metered (in the car our casa called for us), would have been 6-ish by Panataxi (which was the amount we'd told the casa we thought we would pay)

What To Pack

Luggage Restrictions:

You are allowed to take personal effects with you up to a weight of 25 kgs in the suitcase and 5 kgs in the hand luggage. Personal effects are considered clothes, shoes etc.

Another 20 kgs are allowed if you carry additional things for your personal use - these will be taxed 10 CUC per kg.

You are allowed to take up to 10 kgs of medicine with you however packed in a separate suitcase.

Make two photocopies of your ID, credit cards, traveller's checks, plane tickets, and insurance. Leave one set with someone you trust at home, and keep the other set with you, in a separate place from the originals.

Make sure you have: tickets – passport – birth certificates – insurance docs – health cards (make photocopy of passport, leave one at home for family, just in case). There is an exit fee to leave Cuba of $25 US (cash only), keep separate with your passport or airline ticket so it does not get "spent". Depending on airline, most charter flights from Canada, allow for one bag (44 kilos weight) and one carry on (plus maybe a camera bag and carry on) BTW - pack your tweezers, nail scissors, razors, and cigar cutter in your CHECKED baggage. I take an extra lightweight backpack in my suitcase and use for my camera, dictionary etc when walking around sightseeing or bike riding.

Because climate is hot and humid, a variety of tshiirts, as you change clothes alot in humidity. Walking shorts with lots of pockets, zippers, makes it easier to 'not' carry purse, wallet around when site seeing. Good walking sandals or runners (tennis socks) for sweaty feet (and bandaids for blisters). Bring a light jacket/sweater, it can get cool in evening or very cool on air conditioned train/bus. An umbrella, there are downpours at about 4 pm on most days, build up of humidity and heat producing thundershowers etc.

Shampoo, conditioner, hair brush, toothpaste, shower gel, deodorant, razors, shave cream, feminine hygiene products, GOOD SUNSCREEN, take a washcloth and handtowel, extra toilet paper for out of the way trips, handi wipes, baggies or zip lock bags for dirty laundry (various sizes) Prescription medicine, if needed and a note form doctor that this is for your use (if you hand out antibiotics to Cubans, make sure they confirm with their doctor that they can use it (ie Penicillin (allergies possible etc) and even anti histamine or medicine for asthma etc. , gravol, Advil, Pepto Bismo Advil - Tylenol - Advil Cold & Sinus, band aids - Polysporin, tensor bandage for sprains (I sprained my foot in Havana my second day in Cuba and could have used this bandage, believe me) thermometer – Pepto Bismol, Imodium and AFTER BITE in case you get bitten by anything to control the itch, or have an allergic reaction.

Extra batteries and if you need special batteries (I need a special cell battery for small camera) take along extra, you won't find them in Cuba. Have good camera case/bag, as it is hot and humid, to protect your camera. Don't get on plane with film in camera, wait till you get to your destination, it will go through lots of x-ray machines.

One or two bathing suits, cassette tapes blank, Dictionary (Spanish/English) FLASHLIGHTS (Spare bulb/batteries) Drinking glass (insulated)

A bandana, soaked in water, helps you cool down regularly. Also, many funky restaurants have no napkins!

Take pictures of your family, friends, home, etc. They make for great conversation, and the Cubans are starved for any and all uncensored information about America and Americans. They really do love us over there.

The Swiss Army can always be called upon to slice that ready to be eaten mango or avocado, and help fix that perpetually broken down “whatever”.

Pepto Bismol taken every day, whether one needs it or not, is great insurance. Kaopektate will be needed, regardless of how much Pepto one consumes. Along the same lines, bring moist baby wipes. 99% of Cuban bathrooms have no toilet paper, and the wipes, carried in a small zip lock bag, are compact, convenient, and oh so cool…

Zip lock bags help keep the moisture out of your expensive camera, CD player, etc.

Good walking shoes, a good sense of humor, and a good attitude, as things are very different in Cuba!

Where to Party: Bars and Nightclubs

If you're really into the music and club scene, check out the Yemaya's Verse blog, and her Timba Geeks Guide to Havana. The blog and guide contains a wealth of insider information on venues, how to figure out what band is playing where, what bands are hot, and much more.

La Zorra y el Cuelvo, Calle 23 No. 155 e/ N y O Vedado (tel 55 26 96)

“Best Jazz club in Cuba, expensive”

A hip, taste maker venue that puts on quality live Latin jazz nightly. Doors open at 9pm nightly, but it really gets going at 11pm. Enjoy the best Latin jazz, played by incredible musicians.

If you like Jazz music then Cuba is the place to go! The latin inspired Jazz is incredible -AND I DON'T EVEN REALLY LIKE JAZZ . There are two main clubs in Havana, the Jazz Cafe on the Malecon, a large and modern second floor club. And La Zorra y El Cuervo on La Rampa, a small smoky atmospheric basement place on La Rampa. I knew it as a cheap (and not bad at all!) CUP restaurant

Jazz Café, Third level of the Galerías Paseo mall, Avs. Paseo and 3, Vedado

This place feels a little too slick and modern to be a jazz club, with chrome-trimmed tables and chairs, a curving wall of windows, and fairly bright lighting. But a jazz club it is, and next to La Zorra y El Cuervo , this is the top spot to search out Cuba's best and brightest jazz talents.

Casa de la Musica

Casa de la Amistad

“Good music, cheap drinks, Salsa” Band Tuesday and Saturday only?

Casa de Trova. Habana Centro?

Yes, we had been talking about the place, as a friend in London had also recommended it. It was a totally chilled local kind of place, no food or drink on sale, just some chairs and people taking turns doing these music skits, there were old Cubans dancing, fat people in Polyester, a guy tap dancing in a bright red jump-suit. The only foreigners were the types you can tell have been on the road long term - dirty old sandals, beards, and unintentional dreadlocks.

Cafe de Paris, San Ignacio esq Obispo, La Habana Vieja, La Habana. Crowded with a nice mix of both tourists and locals, the drunken atmosphere is further enhanced by live bands. In a small space there are tables for two and for four, tucked close together, and a Cuban music band in the background, forcing you to speak fairly loudly if you want to be heard. It is one of the liveliest night places in Havana, offering a wide range of light meals to go with the cocktails, spirits and beers.

Club Imagenes, Calzada 602, esquina C, Vedado, La Habana. This café bar is located in the El Vedado neighborhood of Havana. The décor is pleasant and inviting and the ambience is relaxed and intimate. It is and ideal place for couples or groups of friends who would like to spend the night listening to traditional songs interpreted by Pedro Luis Guerra, one of the most popular Cuban singer/songwriters who can be seen and heard here every weekend.

Gato Tuerto (One-Eyed Cat), Calle O e/ 17 y 15, Vedado (tel 55 26 96). Just a few metres away from the splendid Hotel Nacional, Gato Tuerto is a recently renovated, pre-revolution bohemian jazz bar that has managed to keep its cool edge despite a complete renovation. Good food, rum and cocktails. Excellent jazz fusion is played nightly from 12pm to 4am. (see picture to left)

There is a place called Casa Alta close to the Miramar tunnel, which hosts very popular events with locals, drawing huge tourist-free crowds.

Karachi, Calle 17 esq. K Vedado La Habana.

This is a place to have a truly enjoyable experience, while you savor a nice long drink and enjoy musical performances and comedy shows. Here you can see some of the best Cuban
singers, from the evening until the early hours of the morning. On Sundays it opens earlier (at two o'clock in the afternoon), and stays open until around eight in the evening, with DJ Viti and guests offering disco and techno music for all you party animals out there.

La Cecilia, a former quiet restaurant in Miramar, has been turned into THE place to go on weekends: queues are huge, 99% of the people there are Cubans, entrance is 15CUC and drinks are apart. I am no longer impressed by the number of young Cubans willing to spend 50, 60 or more CUCs to show off and go out to “los mejores de los lugares”. I saw youngsters bribing the doormen 25CUC to avoid the queue. The invited band was “Gente D la Zona” a youthful reggaeton group. When they appeared, tons of expensive digital cameras and mobile phones appeared. A few years ago, this would be news in Havana; today it’s the norm in any “in” place. Occasional jineterismo takes place in Cecilia, but it didn’t look like a major hangout, probably due to the extremely low number of foreigners. The place is JAMMED in weekends.

Tropicana, Calle 72 no. 504 Mariano.

Possibly the oldest and most lavish cabaret in the world, the spectacularly colorful Tropicana features more than 200 dancers, musicians and vocalists (with an emphasis on beautiful, scantily-clad cubanas). Inaugurated in 1939, the Tropicana has an atmosphere of the 1950s with an exclusively Cuban touch. Pricey: $70/person -- make a reservation. Starts at 8.30pm with the show from 10pm to 11pm. Closed Monday.

Dos Hermanos, At the corner of Calle Santa Clara, la Habana Vieja

This is a slightly seedy port bar, but well within the safety net of restored Habana Vieja. A few jineteras and a conjunto (small musical band) are usually in attendance. There are tables scattered across two rooms, and a long, wooden bar with a good selection of call liquors. This place is open 24 hours.

La Puntilla

is still another Cubans-only place, where local comedians make fun of anything from Bush’s IQ to the lack of butter in bodegas. I absolutely love this place.

Another improbable lively place is the restaurant next to La Zorra y el Cuervo, called

Karabali.; I knew it as a cheap (and not bad at all!) CUP restaurant, but it turns out that it’s a night hangout of a very young crowd (none over 30 I’d say) and a handful of jineteras. There are frequent shows that vary from low-key Cuban bands to dancing contests that make the place go packed. Again, the vast majority are locals and foreign students.

I idiotically made it to Club Habana in Miramar on a Sunday, to find out that its disco is only open on Saturdays and Fridays.

El Chevere on the other hand, can be very empty or full of life and people, depending on when you go. Former Johnny’s is called Rio or Superclub now and although regular jineteras hang out, it’s mostly Cubans-only and most of the locals there are “normal” people. Apparently there is a new phone number one can call and find out where the “farandula” takes place, but I managed to lose it; you just ask around and people will tell you if tonight it’s the Cecilia or Casa Alta. Concerts at “El Morro” have started already (isn’t it a bit too early? I won’t complain anyway) and the disco there frequently hosts “discotemba” (70’s and 80’s hits) nights.

Compay’s grandchildren have taken over the “Septeto Habanero” folks at Casa de la Amistad on Tuesdays (Saturday is the day for more modern things over there). Early afternoon concerts seem to have increased and the same goes for early morning ones (Karabali for example hosts concerts starting at…6am twice a week!). I still have a dozen places to check out, but I need to get some sleep, too. 80s rock bands (some of which are legendary according to 40+ locals…) make appearances at 1830 or La Maison on weekend “matines”.

Cocodrilo is still the best place for stand-up comedy On Sundays it’s Rikimbily, Marikonchi and Churrisco and on Tuesdays it’s Oto Ortiz and Anael. Really hard to make a choice. Cocodrilo is such a healthy place: cheap food, Cubans only, great thought-provoking humor, no working girls and a family atmosphere; my first choice for a fun night and it becomes dance-till-you-drop after 1am.

Things to See and Do

El Malecon (seafront)

The Malecon perfectly sums up Havana. In any other country, a sea front area like that would be a tourist focal point….but in Cuba? The busiest road in Cuba doesn’t even have a pedestrian crossing there. The buildings are ramshackle at best but somehow it is one of the most beautiful sites I have seen. Looking out over the Atlantic, the sun going down, the contrast of old and new Havana, kids jumping off rocks into in the choppy surf, the laughter of the local fishermen.

The Malecón runs for about five kilometers, from the entrance of the Bay of Havana - in the east - to the west, with a capricious design parallel to the irregular coastline, which is bathed by the warm waters surrounding the island. In addition to its beauty and centennial history, Havana's Malecón is a major element in the city's road order, since its six lanes (three in each direction) allow for a fluid circulation of vehicles. Contrary to winter seasons in Cuba, when the sea jumps over the wall, a true avalanche of people invades the Malecón in Carnival times, expressing their happiness and enjoyment, so typical of people who love their culture. For many, the place is considered the true pulse of the city, a loyal reflection of its inhabitants' life, loves, games, sadness and meetings, all these in a strip that is just a few kilometers long. During the early years of the 20th century, the Malecón was an area of public baths, where the city's dwellers enjoyed the warm seawaters, keeping the strict reserve between men and women dictated by the customs of the epoch. Along the Malecón, people can enjoy the sight of buildings and statues that have become landmarks in the island's traditions, such as the Riviera Hotel and the monumental Nacional Hotel, or a place dedicated to the memory of Calixto García, an outstanding figure during Cuba's war for independence in the 19th century. For both visitors and locals, the Malecón wall is also a favorite place to escape from the night heat that characterizes summers in the largest Antillean island, where thousands of people go to enjoy the sea breeze or just spend a pleasant time outdoors. Many families go to the Malecón to look at the blue waters and the many ships crossing over the horizon or entering the Port of Havana, with no other purpose than letting time pass in the company of the charms of the famous road.

The Malecon is a 7-kilometre sea wall in Havana Bay that runs along one of the main arteries of the city. It is an absolute must-see because it is so important to and ingrained in the pysche of Havana's residents. It's often called the "soul" of Havana. The Malecon is exactly how fiction and non-fiction books describe it. Lovers sit cuddling together, locals play and fish, husslers hussle saying "Hey man, where do you come from?" , teenage jineteras cat-call and make dreamy eyes at tourist men (whether the guy's with his girlfriend or not!). One nasty girl in cutoff jeans spread her legs wide as I walked by. Yikes! We sat down for a few minutes and enjoyed the incredible view of the bay. It's a strange, fantastic place. How can somewhere seem so dangerous and peaceful at the same time? During the winter the sea breaks against the wall can crash water up over the wall onto the sidewalk. The building of the Malecon was started in 1901 and parts were gradually added until 1923. Locals use the Malecon a place for a quick swim, somewhere to fish, somewhere to party, and some still bring offers to the ancient gods. Kids play on the rocks between the wall and the ocean. Lovers use it as a romantic meeting place to sit, look out across the blue, watch the ships and the sunset, and relax.

You must stop at the castle 'Los Tres Reyes del Morro',a museum with typical colonial armament and a brief history of Havana and its defensive system. Also these castle houses,the lighthouse that shines all night long, You can climb up the stairs and there's a beautiful view of Havana and of course, the malecon :) Near this castle you can find 'La Cabaña' where a special ceremony takes place each night, 'El cañonazo', at 9. It's a ceremony where an old cannon (from the late 18th century) is fired to the bay, all this with the typical suits and command voices of that time. You can taste with your own hands our ancient buildings. You can see people of all over the places walking together. And of course, don´t miss the sunset in the malecon...you´ll love it!!

La Bodeguita del Medio (Hemingway Bar), Empedrado No. 207 La Habana Vieja,

Sure it's a tourist trap, but that's no reason not to enjoy yourself at this funky and famous bar/restaurant. The atmosphere is great. Get there early for either lunch or dinner, since it's packed with busloads of tourists at mealtime. Many don't even bother buying a drink or meal and simply overcrowd the place to have their photographs taken inside. The food is criollo, with plenty of roasted pork and chicken dishes as well as black beans, rice and root vegetables. It's simple, rustic and satisfying. Service can be jaded and surly. They obviously don't need most people's business. El Bodeguita was supposedly one of the favorite drinking holes of Ernest Hemingway, and he reportedly always drank mojito cocktails at the bar. He would be appalled at the quality of the mojitos today. They have resorted to using unaged cane alcohol for the drinks, making them taste like sweetened firewater. Order a mojito with three-year-old rum instead.

La Floridita, Obispo No.557 esq. a Monserrate

Famous Hemingway hangout (and regular stop on the tourbus circuit), and birthplace of the daiquiri, El Floridita is expensive but the seafood dishes are good. The restaurant is one of the most formal and exclusive restaurants in the old city.

I consider myself somewhat of a cocktail expert. The Floridita makes the BEST cocktail I have EVER tasted anywhere. Some might call the place overpriced ($6 cocktail). At least you're getting quality for your money here) and over-touristy. But the décor was perfect 1920s; we just loved it, and thought of a few friends back home who would love it, too.

The food here is acceptable but can't justify the hefty price tags. If you do stick around for a meal, stick to the seafood. The sautéed shrimp, which is prepared tableside, is a good bet. I recommend El Floridita mostly as a cool and refreshing place to stop for a drink in the middle of a hot afternoon walking around Old Havana.

Fabrica de Tobacos Partagas (Cigar Factory), Casa del Habano Partagas, Industria No. 320

Visit the Cigar factory where some of the most famous cigars in the world are made.

This was one of the most authentic Cuban things to do and not to miss while in Havana. Partagas is the oldest and the biggest and even if called Partagas, it manufactures plenty of quality cigars like Cohiba, Monte risto, Romeo y Julieta in various shapes and sizes. The employees need in average about 9 months of training to do any of the production stages - from leaves sorting to rolling and they enjoy priveleged compensation - about $40 monthly salary and the choice of 3 cigars per day. While a cigar is on average $10 no wonder they all do sell them:) You’ll get plenty of phone numbers and even the guides could 'guide' u how to buy half price authentic cigars - the ones in the shop price range is very comparable to duty free prices. This is your best source of authentic cigars - ask the guy to show u his employee badge, check the labels and the color, smoke randomly a cigar, bargain a lot and ull end up with a very nice deal:) nowadays ure not allowed to take pictures in the factory as probably the employees got fed up and tired of all touristy flashy but got a pic in the nice cigar shop:)

Tours every 15 min, 9:30-11:00 and 12:00-3:00. $10

El Laguito Cigar Factory

2302 Street 146 | Mariano, Havana, Cuba

Brilliant, wasn't that interested in cigars so nearly didn't go but for the sake of 10 pesos (approx £7) it is well worth 40 mins of your time, cannot believe there is not a single bit of mechanisation in the place. really interesting you cannot go to Havana without a trip round this factory.

Beaches (Playas del Este)

Taxi:15 minutes,15.00 cuc.

Panataxi white Russian Ladas no a/c 12.00 cuc.

Tell driver to drop you off at Tropicoco area.

Havana beaches are located 18 km east of Havana, a 15-20 minute cab ride from Habana Viejo. Havana beach, "Playa del Este" consists of four beaches in total. Two pairs grouped with two small towns which share names with two of the beaches. To the west Playa El Megano and Playa Santa Maria Del Mar are located by the town of Santa Maria Del Mar. East of this and separated by the Rio Itabo, are Playa Boca Ciega and Playa Guanabo.

Playa del Este" is also a major vacation destination for Cubanos from in and around Havana.
The beaches here are full of Habaneros on the weekends. The beach area contains numerous of restaurants, cafes and bars as well as limited water sports equipment for rental. There are also a couple of convenience stores, a pharmacy, and clinic, a supermarket and a couple of cigar shops.

The Playas del Este (Eastern Beaches) are just 20-30 minutes from Havana on the coast road to Varadero. Full of sun worshippers and local flavor, these sands have something of a daytime-disco-by-the-sea atmosphere. Although a morning of basking in the sun is conceivable, visiting the beaches is really more of a full-day operation. Take Vía Monumental toward Cojímar; 1 km (½ mi) beyond the second Cojímar exit, Vía Blanca splits off to the beaches.

The first beach is Bacuranao, 18 km (11 mi) east of Havana. Beneath the waters off this small, white-sand cove are coral reefs and an 18th-century Spanish galleon, making this a popular scuba diving spot. Look for the Villa Bacuranao, a bustling bar-disco that also has inexpensive cabins to rent.

Two kilometers (1 mile) east of Bacuranao is Playa Tarará, a small stretch of white sand that is home to the 50-berth Marina Tarará/Club Nautico, site of the annual July Old Man and the Sea Fishing Tournament. You can arrange boat rentals, yacht cruises, and diving or snorkeling excursions here.

Just 2 km (1 mi) farther east is Playa El Mégano, a quiet stretch of sand.

El Mégano is really considered a western extension of the main beach, Playa de Santa María, which runs east to the mouth of the Río Itabo. This happening area is home to the Hotel Tropicoco.

Playa Boca Ciega is another beach on the coast road to Varadero.

If you head still farther east, you'll come to Playa Guanabo, the least lovely of the Playas del Este but popular with surfcasters and joggers.

Driving 10 km (6 mi), you'll reach Santa Cruz del Norte, an industrial town that holds Cuba's greatest distillery, the Ronera Santa Cruz, where the ubiquitous Havana Club rum is made. Don't let the offshore oil rigs (or the less than pristine waters) deter you from continuing. Just 3 km (2 mi) east of Santa Cruz is Playa Jibacoa, the best and least spoiled of all the beaches near Havana. Nestled between headlands at the mouth of the Río Jibacoa, its white sands are backed by cliffs that overlook crystal clear, aquamarine waters. Divers will appreciate the coral reefs here; landlubbers can follow hiking trails from the beach into the back country.

Coppelia, Calle 23 y L, opposite Hotel Habana Libre

In theory, kiosks open 24 hrs, but in reality, Tue-Sun 1100-2230.
Ice cream is the passion of the masses - 30,000 a day are served. The one-time pleasure preserve of the bourgeoisie, Cubans wait and salivate, on average for more than an hour, for their daily ritual. Making up for decades of deprivation, they indulge with a frenzy, shunning cones on the go in favour of dollop upon dollop of ice cream, served atop slabs of cake and drenched with sauces. A visit to Coppelia is a must, as much for the ice cream as for the people-watching potential.

Coppelia takes up almost an entire block in the Vedado district, on a corner right in the centre of this popular zone. There are outdoor tables surrounded by gardens, as well as seating areas in a central building, with serving counters on the ground floor, and function rooms on the first. All the areas except one sell in Cuban pesos, which means low prices, but also a 30 to 40 minute queue. The price in local pesos is equivalent to approximately USD 0.05 per ice cream, but the choice available.

NH Parque Central Hotel, Rooftop Bar and Pool, Calle Neptuno E/ Paseo Del Prado Y Zulueta

Stayed at Parque Central for 3 nights, first class hotel with superb public areas - especially the lovely rooftop bar with a fabulous view of the city. We were told several times that the Parque Central has the best breakfast in town, and we certainly found it the best of the places we stayed.

Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja

Art market, every day except Sunday. Paintings $60-$200

When you take a shuttle or taxi to La Habana Vieja, they usually drop you off near the Plaza de la Catedral, which makes it the perfect spot to begin your journey through the old streets of the city. The Cathedral itself is definitely worth visiting; built in the 18th century, it is dedicated to San Cristobal. The Plaza surrounding the Cathedral is always full of life, with many tourists stopping for a drink at the nearby patio, musicians and other local people looking to make a few CUC by braiding your hair, wearing colorful costumes for pictures, etc. A great place to start and end your day in La Habana Vieja!

Museo de la Revolution, Calle Refugio #1, Habana Vieja

Just down the street from Parque Central. The Museum of the Revolution is a sight to behold. It isn’t meant to be funny, it is pure propaganda and if you are easily offended stay away. The first line that greets you at the start of the tour is “When the Yankee Imperialists Invaded our Country….” That sets the scene for the rest of it although the Che Guevarra room is excellent. It may be a very one-eyed look at their past but it is a good eye and worth a visit.

Plaza de Artisans - Flea Market, Calle Tacon

An artisans market with paintings, curios and souvenirs

I returned to one of my favorite spots the Plaza de Artisans open-air street market on Calle Tacón. Amid all the usual tourist kitsch you can find some interesting things: musical instruments (claves, maracas, guiros) and inexpensive paintings and jewelry. I found lots of new artists and lots more wood sculpture than I had found on previous visits. Within a few minutes of the Plaza de Artisans, you can walk to Taller Experimental de la Grafica on Callejon del Chorro, near the Plaza de Catedral which traces the history of engraving and has many pieces for sale. If you plan to buy valuable artwork, be sure to get the authorization de exportacion( authorization for exportation) issued by the Registro Nacional de Bienes Culturales to avoid complications with customs. Reputable art dealers will take care of this for you.

Parisienne Cabaret , Hotel Nacional

No visit to Havana is complete without taking in one of the famous Vegas-style cabaret shows at a local nightclub. The two most famous shows are the Tropicana Nightclub or the Parisien Cabaret in the Hotel Nacional, one of the best night-clubs in Havana.

The two-hour extravaganza features music, costumes, dancing and a celebration of Cuban cultural history. Tickets can range from $25 to $50 CUC depending on where you arrange your tickets. The cheapest seems to be to make direct arrangements and bookings through the front desk at the Hotel Nacional.

Tropicana Club, Calle 72, between Calles 41 and 45, Marianao

Show CUC$50-CUC$60; packages with transportation and dinner CUC$70

Accept no substitutes. This is the real deal. It's expensive -- in fact, overpriced -- but if you're going to see a cabaret show in Havana, it might as well be at the Tropicana. First opened in 1939, this open-air dinner theater is still the defining cabaret show in Cuba, if not the world. You enter the lush garden theater after passing the club's signature sculpted "Fountain of the Muses." Dinner service starts around 8pm and is an uninspired but acceptable affair. The show itself begins around 10:30pm. Once the show begins, the stage and verdant surroundings become an orgy of light, color, costumes, and pulsating movement. Scores of scantily clad showgirls and dancers seamlessly weave together a series of different numbers. The 2-hour-long spectacle covers most of the bases of popular Cuban show and dance music, from son to bolero to danzón to salsa, with a bit of Afro-Cuban religious music thrown into the mix. After the show, you can continue the celebration by dancing the night away at the adjoining Salón Arcos de Cristal.

Virtually every hotel and tour agency in Havana can book you a night at the Tropicana; some include dinner and a bottle of rum at the nightclub, others are just for the show (including a complimentary cuba libre), or include dinner first at El Ajibe or another Miramar restaurant. Packages with transportation and dinner are only slightly more than for the show alone, and are therefore a decent deal. Since it's open-air, rain cancels the function. You'll get your money back on a rainout, but they offer no guaranteed reservations for a makeup show.

Calle Obispo, just around the from Parque Central and the Capitolio.

We walked to the main bazaar from here - the Calle Obispo. This is a pedestrian only narrow street on either side of which are restored buildings, government offices, shops and restaurants. The sight from one end to the other is breathtaking, with colorful Cubans, tourists, and various street side vendors. Very bohemian with lots of galleries, shops, cafe's.

Plaza Armas

For Sunday bookfair

Free Market (hard currency) on Tacon in Parque Cespedes, at the waterfront just behind Castillo la Real Fuerza

For hand made souvenirs.

El Morro Castle, across from Bay of Havana

Canon firing at 9:00 p.m. ceremony. Make sure to climb Faro (the lighthouse) for a fabulous view across the harbour at old Havana.

El Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro and La Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana are located across the bay of Havana. From La Habana Vieja, you can easily take a taxi to get through the tunnel. Built in 1763, the Fortaleza is a great place to go when you feel like getting away from the bustling city to walk around and enjoy the view of Havana from across the bay and perhaps get something to eat at one of the restaurants located inside the walls of the fortress. From the Fortaleza, you can easily walk to the Castillo. The main attraction of the Castillo is the lighthouse that was built in 1845 and is still in operation today. Visitors are allowed to climb up to the top of the lighthouse to enjoy the beautiful panoramic view. If you know a bit of Spanish you can talk with the lighthouse keeper who'll explain how the lighthouse works.

Bocoy Rum factory, Fábrica de ron Bocoy, Calzada del Cerro No. 1417, Cerro

Here's the link to the Havana Club Fundacion website: HC Foundation

Alternative: the Havana Club Fundacion Outlet (San Pedro y Sol, Ave. del Puerto #262)

The Bocoy Rum Factory on Avenida Máximo Gómez in Havana (FCA De Ron Bocoy) was established in 1878 to produce both Ron Bocoy and also the Legendario brand. The word Bocoy is a Cuban unit of capacity from the 19th century. In Havana the bocoy was reportedly especially used for honey, = 6 barils, approximately 136 liters, and weighed 12 arrobas, approximately 138 kilograms.

Cuban rum is considered a liquor for great occasions whose origin goes back to the time when sugarcane was introduced to Cuba. Since then, it has become an irreplaceable companion to Cuban life. Cuban rum has its precedence in a beverage obtained from molasses during the sugar-producing process. It was initially used in rituals by African slaves brought to Cuba. Between 1762 and 1792, Cuba supplied the world market with rum, which didn't evolved into the genuine Cuban rum until the 18th and 19th centuries. It has since accumulated a rich history of tradition that has overcome the passage of time. Moreover, each distillery contributes a specific brand to the market, with aromas, tastes and colors, thus creating its own circle of connoisseurs.

For many vacationers who arrive in Cuba, the enjoyment of a glass of excellent rum is closely linked to a good Havana cigar. This is often why you will see them sold together in the same establishment. La Tienda El Roble Ron Tabaco Cafe (The Oak Rum Cafe & Tobacco Store) shares the Bocoy facility and one of the great pleasures of a tour is at the end when the bottles are lined up and patrons can sample the many different brands. At the far end of the room, cigars are available for the aficionado to purchase. It is considered impolite to not make a purchase following a tour and sampling session but Cuban rum is inexpensive, though high quality.

Plaza Revolution and Jose Marti monument and museum.

View from top is great. Postal Museum is right around the corner as well if you like stamps.

Plaza Vieja at the bottom of San Ignacio

For the tremendous architecture and also there's a microbrewery in the southwest corner.

Chinatown, just to the west of the Capitolo by a few blocks.

Walkable distance on Dragones at the south end of the Capitolo.

Castillo Real Fuerza, right off Plaza Armas

Very nice to walk through.

University of Havana (up near la Rampa and Coppelia)

Cemetary Colon, Near Plaza Revolution

Many mausoleums and artistic graves. Very historic.

Parque Lenin

Very pretty. Las Ruinas for lunch.

Palacio de Artisania

The Palace of Artisans, with a Cafe and live music, watch out in particular for a lady called Carmen Flores who sings there in the day time, She is a wonderful character and has one of the most powerful voices I have ever heard

The Roof of Parque Central Hotel

For a view of Central Havana this is an fantastic place to take some pictures from. The Parque Central has a swimming pool and cafe on the top floor with unrestricted views across Parque Central to the Capitolo building

Hemmingway Marina

You can visit the Hotel where Hemmingway wrote "For whom the bell Tolls" and for a nominal fee visit his bedroom which is now a mini museum with memrobilia from his life. This changes every few months, and is currently featuring his Africa trips

Mother Theresa's Garden

Mother Theresa's garden is a little corner in Old Havana which is dedicated to the memory of Mother Theresa. In the garden is a tiny Greek orthodox Church you can visit as well which was a gift from Castro to The Greek Orthodox church as he used ot be Greek Orthodox. The Garden is next to the Plaza that has the Statue of St Francis near the docks

Capitolio Building

On the steps of the Capitolo building is a great photo opportunity. You can also get your picture taken and developed with an original Kodak Box camera for 1 cuc. A great picture spot. The old Capital building of Havana is now used as a museum. This spot gets crowded during the day, so I found you get a better picture later in the afternoon after all the day tours have left. A couple of locals take pictures using very very old style cameras. The pictures only cost 1 peso and aren't very good quality, but its worth just to sit on the steps and check out all the people going by as you wait for your picture to develop.

Tourist visiting the old village of San Cristobal de La Habana often ask for the location of this building, considered the second highest spot in the city. Machado, the president under whom the capitol was build, from April 1, 1926 to 1929, was proud of saying that havana capitol was bigger than Washington capitolio. Figures are also impressive, since the building cost nearly 17 million pesos, a very high amount of money at the time, and 8,000 specialized workers took part in its construction. Regarding construction materials, five million bricks, 38,000 cubic meters of sand, 40,000 cubic meters of rocks, 150,000 bags of cement, 3,500 tons of structural steel and 2,000 tons of iron bars were used in the works. It is precisely this condition which attracts the attention of both Cubans and foreigners, also interested in posing in front of old cameras, one century old, true photographic relics on their tripods, which allow them to perpetuate in an image the memory of a building of monumental architecture. Artists of photography proliferate around the building, ready to meet the demands of passersby, and to manipulate, in a very professional way, their cameras, which bear the imprint left by the passage of several decades. The Capitol houses treasures such as the statue that represents the Republic, which was made by Italian artist Angelo Zanelli and is considered the world's third largest sculpture indoors. The building has played its role in Cuba's history, since its halls hosted the Constituent Assembly and witnessed the enactment of the Constitution in 1940. After the triumph of the Revolution in 1959, the Capitol became the headquarters of the Academy of Sciences of Cuba, first, and of the Ministry of Science, Technology and Environment (CITMA), later. Among the activities held in the spacious halls of the Capitol are meetings, exhibitions, solemn acts and business events, and the personnel working there is embarked in spreading the historic and architectonic heritage of the building.